Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: J. Smith, N. Nordblom, 1988
Page Views: 4,226 total · 27/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


45 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Great route on the left end of the Stratocaster area.
Climb the open-book left-facing corner and crack (5.10) for perhaps 15 meters to a roof.
Clip bolts while traversing out right on the steep territory and pull the roof (bolts) to finish up to a fixed anchor.
Lowering off may be hard on your rope, as would the second hang-dogging, so belay a solid partner from the anchors.

Location

Walking South towards the second pullout from Running Man Wall, this will be in the first major roof system encountered. At the left end of the large roof there is a crack in the corner, an open book that is climbable to the bolted roof and a fixed anchor above.

Protection

A set of cams from fingers to 3" plus a few draws for the bolts. One or two pieces might be best with a longer sling, including the first of the bolts.
Great route. Really, really fun. Anchor is solid but not ideal for TRing. Folks who want to save their ropes might consider autoblock belaying the second directly off the anchor. 10d/11a is a pump rating, no real hard moves on this one. Nov 2, 2011
Andrew Yasso
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c/d
Andrew Yasso   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c/d
I second all of the comments above. Every point is accurate and apt. Mar 2, 2013
Austin Boren
las vegas Nevada
 
Austin Boren   las vegas Nevada
 
one of may favorite single pitch trad routs in red rocks. pumpy at the top so save some steam. Nov 17, 2013
Some has recently installed two bolts directly adjacent to the crack. Please chop. They are completely unnecessary and non-camouflaged. May 8, 2017