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Routes in Stratocaster Area

Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cut Loose T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flame Ranger T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pablo Diablo Direct Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tier of Titans T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 60 ft
FA: J. Smith, N. Nordblom, 1988
Page Views: 4,026 total · 28/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

Great route on the left end of the Stratocaster area.
Climb the open-book left-facing corner and crack (5.10) for perhaps 15 meters to a roof.
Clip bolts while traversing out right on the steep territory and pull the roof (bolts) to finish up to a fixed anchor.
Lowering off may be hard on your rope, as would the second hang-dogging, so belay a solid partner from the anchors.

Location

Walking South towards the second pullout from Running Man Wall, this will be in the first major roof system encountered. At the left end of the large roof there is a crack in the corner, an open book that is climbable to the bolted roof and a fixed anchor above.

Protection

A set of cams from fingers to 3" plus a few draws for the bolts. One or two pieces might be best with a longer sling, including the first of the bolts.
Raddam6
Salt Lake
Raddam6   Salt Lake
Some has recently installed two bolts directly adjacent to the crack. I urge the local community to chop these bolts at earliest convenience. They are completely unnecessary and non-camouflaged. May 8, 2017
Austin Boren
las vegas Nevada
 
Austin Boren   las vegas Nevada
 
one of may favorite single pitch trad routs in red rocks. pumpy at the top so save some steam. Nov 17, 2013
Andrew Yasso
Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c/d
Andrew Yasso   Las Vegas, NV
  5.10c/d
I second all of the comments above. Every point is accurate and apt. Mar 2, 2013
Great route. Really, really fun. Anchor is solid but not ideal for TRing. Folks who want to save their ropes might consider autoblock belaying the second directly off the anchor. 10d/11a is a pump rating, no real hard moves on this one. Nov 2, 2011