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Routes in Stratocaster Area

Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cut Loose T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flame Ranger T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pablo Diablo Direct Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tier of Titans T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: B Conz, S Shelton, J Smith, P VanBetten, 1991
Page Views: 5,872 total · 39/month
Shared By: Tony B on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A nice long route on mostly huge holds. Unadulterated fun. This climb starts up the second big cave/roof at the Stratocaster area and goes up and left to bypass the roof on good holds, then up a hugely huecoed face on huge holds (with a few huge moves) to reach a fixed anchor. Swain's book suggests rapping with 2 ropes, but I recall lowering off and TRing my partner with a single 70M rope.

Location

This climb is the OBVIOUS hueco and jug system starting up the left side of the main stratocaster cave, perhaps 50M past Cut Loose and 30M past Foot Loose. a few minutes South of Running man wall. This is a bit to the left a short bit of the area's namesake climb 'Stratocaster'

Protection

10 draws.

Photos

John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
A 70m rope works nicely for this route- its so long, but really awesome. The crux is the roof section, but alot of folks will struggle at the start- there are two options, left and right. The right is a little bouldery (if you're short, stack the cheater stones to reach the first hold), the left is a hand crack problem that is probably about 5.10 or so.

edit: as of 2/11/11, this route is equipped with mussy hooks. Nov 27, 2006
A 70m works well for this route. Aside from the opening move or getting over the first roof the climbing is very easy with plenty of no hand rests. Keep your game on at the end too! Most fun single pitch on the trip. May 2, 2011
BrianWS
  5.11-
BrianWS  
  5.11-
Felt way softer than any other 11b's in the area. A few jams makes the start much easier. Mar 17, 2013
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
If you a intimidated by the bolt spacing, bring a few .75-#2 Camalot size pieces and you can add more protection if you like. There's even a thread for a sling before the anchors. It's plenty safe and you're on easy terrain between the bolts, but there are plenty of placements that I noted along the way. Get on this thing, its fun! Dec 3, 2013
1/5/2017 ....The Southen Neveda Climbers Coalition with support from ASCA preformed some route maintenance on Marshal Amp. The first protection bolt was replaced with a Fixe SS 3/8 x 6 1/2 Glue-In Bolt. Jan 5, 2017
Dan Austin
San Francisco, CA
  5.11b
Dan Austin   San Francisco, CA
  5.11b
Incredible route with some of the most fun holds I've ever come across. After a pretty low crux, the climbing gets considerably easier, though the spacing of the bolts should be plenty to keep you engaged! Jan 30, 2017
James C.
  5.11b R
James C.  
  5.11b R
If your head is no good on runouts, bring a few .75s to 2s. I peed a little Apr 13, 2018

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