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Stratocaster Direct
5.12b YDS 7b French 26 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 26 ZA E5 6b British
Avg: 3 from 109
votes
Routes in Stratocaster Area
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Ancient Aria S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Choad Hard S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Choad Hard (1st Anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cut Loose T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Flame Ranger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flying V S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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La Papa Brava T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nevada Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pablo Diablo Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Spikes and Twine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Split Ends S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Split Infinitive S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Split Lip T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Swedish Erotica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tier of Titans S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 50 ft (15 m) |
| GPS: | 36.15852, -115.4401 |
| FA: | Dan McQuade, Spring 1992 |
| Page Views: | 10,165 total · 41/month |
| Shared By: | Matt McMurray on Apr 25, 2006 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
The crux consists of a series of difficult crimps at the second bolt, followed by a dynamic move to a huge triangular shaped point. This really seems like a sweet boulder problem that continues up through a series of juggy heucos to the anchors. Be sure you are solid in clipping the third bolt, as there is a potential for a groundfall if your belayer isn't proficient. Most people I've seen climb the route stick-clip the first two bolts for protection. The crux moves earn the grade for the climb, yet after the crux it is more like 5.10 climbing. Word has it that the first ascensionist would do a "superman" dive from the elevated bushes behind the route to the jug rail as an alternative start. Kudos to Dan!! I tried this on toprope. I am 6'2" and could barely make this jump from the bushes. My partner was 5'10" and was unsuccessful. Regardless if you climb this route you should really try it! =)
9 Comments