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Routes in Stratocaster Area

Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cut Loose T,S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Flame Ranger T,S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Pablo Diablo Direct Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Tier of Titans T,S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Dan McQuade
Page Views: 6,470 total, 46/month
Shared By: Matt McMurray on Apr 25, 2006
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

The crux consists of a series of difficult crimps at the second bolt, followed by a dynamic move to a huge triangular shaped point. This really seems like a sweet boulder problem that continues up through a series of juggy heucos to the anchors. Be sure you are solid in clipping the third bolt, as there is a potential for a groundfall if your belayer isn't proficient. Most people I've seen climb the route stick-clip the first two bolts for protection. The crux moves earn the grade for the climb, yet after the crux it is more like 5.10 climbing. Word has it that the first ascensionist would do a "superman" dive from the elevated bushes behind the route to the jug rail as an alternative start. Kudos to Dan!! I tried this on toprope. I am 6'2" and could barely make this jump from the bushes. My partner was 5'10" and was unsuccessful. Regardless if you climb this route you should really try it! =)

Location

This route climbs out from the right side of the Stratocaster cave. There is an obvious belay stance under the first bolt. Be careful of the sticky bushes if you come swinging off the route!

Protection

Five bolts to some eyebolt anchors.
Was at the wall again today and did the jump start for fun. Good times for anyone in the area. Good way to end the day with the homies. Jan 9, 2014
Jeremy Steck
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
Jeremy Steck   Salt Lake City, UT
  5.12b
The gate on the biner of the first fixed draw is still in the same condition as of 11/30/13. Clip it, but stick the second for sure. The crappy biner still does a fine job of redirecting the forces if you blow the dyno and keeps you from slamming into your belayer. The crux move is rad as hell! Dec 3, 2013