Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 43 total · 43/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Jan 4, 2020
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Start on Stratocaster Direct but at the fourth bolt traverse left along the lip of the roof before heading up to a crux clipping the anchors. If you do this via the “normal” start the route is going to check in at 5.12. The only way to keep it at 5.11 (maybe...) is to start with a wild leap directly to the jug above the third bolt. It doesn’t seem possible but it goes!

This route is really fun but I have to dock it a star for poor engineering: The placement of the anchor creates an arbitrary clipping crux at the end (though the final moves are good)... But worse is the fact that every bolt save for one are spinners or loose in their holes. This tells me these holes were not cleaned properly and/or the bolts were not tightened properly. This route would be a good candidate for glue-ins.

Protection

12 independent bolts plus the 4x bolts on S. Direct.

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