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Ancient Aria
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 2.3 from 3
votes
Routes in Stratocaster Area
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Ancient Aria S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Beyond Reason S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Break Loose T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Choad Hard S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Choad Hard (1st Anchor) S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Choad Warrior S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Choad Warrior (1st Anchor) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Cut Loose T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Deluxe, The S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Endless Choad S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Flame Ranger S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Flameblower S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Flying V S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Footloose S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Marshall Amp S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Nevada Book T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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One-Eyed Jacks S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Pablo Diablo S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Pablo Diablo Extension S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c |
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Party Down S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Purple Haze S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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Spikes and Twine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Split Ends S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Split Infinitive S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Split Lip T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Stratocaster S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Stratocaster Direct S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Swedish Erotica T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Tier of Titans S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Titan Rocket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
| Type: | Sport, 90 ft (27 m) |
| GPS: | 36.15852, -115.4401 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 889 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Josh Janes on Jan 4, 2020 |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
Start on Stratocaster Direct but at the fourth bolt traverse left along the lip of the roof before heading up to a crux clipping the anchors. If you do this via the “normal” start the route is going to check in at 5.12. The only way to keep it at 5.11 (maybe...) is to start with a wild leap directly to the jug above the third bolt. It doesn’t seem possible but it goes!
This route is really fun but I have to dock it a star for poor engineering: The placement of the anchor creates an arbitrary clipping crux at the end (though the final moves are good)... But worse is the fact that every bolt save for one are spinners or loose in their holes. This tells me these holes were not cleaned properly and/or the bolts were not tightened properly. This route would be a good candidate for glue-ins.
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