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Juniper Crack (1st Pinnacle)
5.5 YDS 4b French 13 Ewbanks IV+ UIAA 11 ZA MS 4a British
Avg: 1.5 from 6
votes
Early Access
Routes in The Amphitheater
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2nd Pinnacle, NW Corner T 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c |
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2nd Pinnacle, Upper East Face Right T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Countdown V3 6A |
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D.A.'s Route T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Dialysis Bag T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c R |
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Direct North Face T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Direct to top of Second Pinnacle T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13 |
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Direct West Bench [formerly listed as variation] T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Diversion T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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East Bench Dihedral T 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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Inset, The T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a PG13 |
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Inside S. Face (1st pinnacle) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R |
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Juniper Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Left Variation (1st pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Macropsychotic T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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McCrumm's Crack (1st Pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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North Face of the West Bench (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b R |
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Northeast Chimney T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Northeast Corner T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Now and Zen T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Outside East Face T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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P.S. I'm Blonde T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Pizza Pie Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Red Gully, The T,TR 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a R |
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Red Wall aka Raptors in Cellophane T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Roof (2nd Pinnacle E. Face) TR 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b X |
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SE Face aka Southeast Arete (First Pinnacle) T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Second Pinnacle East Face T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b R |
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Second Pinnacle South Face T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a |
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Shortcut T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c V-easy 3 |
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Siberian North Face T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Slot [formerly listed at Direct West Bench] T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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South Face Direct (1st Pinnacle) TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b X |
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South Face Left (1st Pinnacle) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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South Rib (2nd Pinnacle) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a R |
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Standard Inside East Face T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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T-Zero West Face aka Finger Crack T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Tyrolean Traverse TR Easy 5th 1+ 3 I 5 M 1c PG13 |
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West Bench Dihedral T,TR 5.2 3 8 II 8 D 2c |
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West Face (of T-Zero) T,TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X |
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| Type: | Trad, 80 ft (24 m) |
| GPS: | 39.9958, -105.2929 |
| FA: | unknown |
| Page Views: | 1,410 total · 5/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on Oct 5, 2002 · Updates |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more.
Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: Some crags in this area are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Details
The following crags are closed 1 February to 31 July:
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…>>>>>
Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Third Flatiron
Queen Anne's Head
WC Fields Pinnacle
The Ghetto
East Ironing Board
West Ironing Board
The Fin
Green Thumb
Jaws
Details
bouldercolorado.gov/index.p…>>>>>
Per George Bracksieck: The 1st, 2nd and 3rd pinnacles are NOT closed for raptor nesting.
Access Issue: 2024 Crag Closures & Temporary Trail and Raptor Closures
Details
The usual crags are closed for climbing for raptor nesting:
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
See: bouldercolorado.gov/service….
Click here for the trail closures. Some are M-F, some are 24/7. These impact the Bear Canyon/Fern Canyon regions primarily:
flatironsclimbing.org/tempo…
Click here bouldercolorado.gov/service… for the latest in raptor closures.
Description
This is a good route for taking beginners on. Climb the East Bench Dihedral to reach the slot between the first pinnacle and the East Bench. Move as far right as possible between the East Bench and the First Pinnacle. Continue to move to the right past a broad groove with a single bolt and through a mild overhang with big holds, just below a small juniper tree.
Climb to the top of the first pinnacle by passing to the right side below said tree and then up.
It's a nice pitch, but it is not great for the beginning 5.6 leader. The gear runs out prior to the crux, and so it is probably a bit hairy if it is at the leader's limit. Still, it has exposure, good rock, and a nice summit.
Descend by scrambling West and then North or by rapping from one of the several fixed anchors up top.
Photos
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