NEW GUIDEBOOK! SQUEEZING THE LEMMON III - Weekly to daily cliff suggestions for the changing seasons!

yeah usually we're well over 100 in the valley right meow.

So after some hard realization and a bruised ego I have realized I really need to work on climbing crack systems. Anyone have some suggestions where I might be able to get a good amount of practice in? I've been thumbing through the guidebook and noted some areas but it seems pretty spread out or very committing for this type of thing. Do any of you know of somewhere on the mountain that would be a good place for this?

^ lol

Chilly 109 this coming weekend.

You should find perfect conditions at Sunspots, Ruins, and sunny side of Hairpin. Not in the book, but Tool Shed would be great as well.

Nick0001 wrote:So after some hard realization and a bruised ego I have realized I really need to work on climbing crack systems. Anyone have some suggestions where I might be able to get a good amount of practice in? I've been thumbing through the guidebook and noted some areas but it seems pretty spread out or very committing for this type of thing. Do any of you know of somewhere on the mountain that would be a good place for this?

Justin Headley wrote:^ lol

seconded

Hey all,
Trying to find out some information about the Havens climbing area on Mt. Lemmon. I have never been there.

#1, could it be kid (baby) friendly? For us that means a level area that is out of the line of fire of any loose rock coming off of a climb.

#2, can you chase shade there? It sort of looks like it from the description which mentions climbs on both the east and west sides, but it's hard to tell.

Any input would be appreciated!

#1 could definitely be kid/baby friendly. Short approach and flat areas can be found within a few hundred yards of the cliff, though the base is often steep.

#2 It's generally southeast facing, but there are enough trees that you can easily find shade somewhere on the ground. The walls will be pretty sunny.

Thanks Paul!

With all due respect Paul, the flat area "within a few hundred yards" is the picnic area where you park. The base of the cliff is narrow and steep if Raycreation and Munchyland is the definition of kid friendly.

The wall faces SW and the trees are mostly scrub oaks unless you are on the south faces. Charles I know I told you this was not a good bet so when I sal this on the thread I thought I would make it clear this is not a good place for kids and will be hot as hell after 11 a.m.

^^^^^

Paul Zander wrote:#1 could definitely be kid/baby friendly. Short approach and flat areas can be found within a few hundred yards of the cliff, though the base is often steep. #2 It's generally southeast facing, but there are enough trees that you can easily find shade somewhere on the ground. The walls will be pretty sunny.

Ended up doing the tried and true Munchkinland/Troll Wall combo yesterday. Absolutely perfect in the shade.

Baby-friendly crags I've found on the mountain so far:

Prison Camp
Milagrosa Main Wall, left side
Ruins, left side (a bit of a surprise, but you can set up on a rise away from the cliff band)
Canines and Lobos Wall (kind of a sleeper pick)
Munchkinland
Troll Wall (set up across the stream)
Primus Wall
Avalon
Raycreation
Ireland (not the greatest, but there is a good protected spot to set up away from the cliffs if you hunt for it)
Neptune N. Face (j/k)

Charles,

I guide kids groups at the Havens often. There actually is a pretty good, but not large, flat area that has shade from trees most of the day. It's away from most of the climbs and pretty well protected. I use it at the "helmet free zone" for the kids groups. The only down-side is that you can't see the area very well if you're climbing on the west facing wall.

Looking for the local suggestion for some climbing on your Lemon. Ill be down there this weekend from Thurs- Sunday. Yes, the hottest dayz of this Summer. Id like a full range of options but maybe a Top 5- must do's. Any grade and all styles welcome. Thanks!

Eric Sophiea wrote:Charles, I guide kids groups at the Havens often. There actually is a pretty good, but not large, flat area that has shade from trees most of the day. It's away from most of the climbs and pretty well protected. I use it at the "helmet free zone" for the kids groups. The only down-side is that you can't see the area very well if you're climbing on the west facing wall.

Hi Eric, just saw your message. Thanks a lot for chiming in. That is exactly the kind of spot that I tend to look for, and sometimes it's not always obvious. We always have a third adult with us so no big deal if it's not directly in sight where people are climbing.

Sounds like the approach isn't very long, so maybe I'll just run over and check it out one day when I'm up on the mountain.

Thanks again.

J. Snyder wrote:Looking for the local suggestion for some climbing on your Lemon. Ill be down there this weekend from Thurs- Sunday. Yes, the hottest dayz of this Summer. Id like a full range of options but maybe a Top 5- must do's. Any grade and all styles welcome. Thanks!

I love the new guidebook, its got good directions, good pictures and topos and a truly massive number of routes. The only thing I felt like it is missing is a couple "best of" lists. Maybe we could compile some of them here? I've seen this in other guidebooks, and thought it was a great way to sample the highlights of an area if you have a limited amount of time. A couple categories to start with and some routes as examples:
Best Sport Routes 5.9 and under
- Chihuahua Power
Best Trad Routes 5.9 and under
- Slippery when wet
- Old Man

Other Categories???
- Best long routes
- Best 5.10 trad / sport
etc,etc

The star ratings in the guidebook serve as a best of; however, it would be nice to have some concise lists. If folks are so inclined we could put together lists and add them to this page: Mount Lemmon (Catalina Highway). This page could probably stand to be updated so if anyone is interested in that endeavor let me know.

Here are the 4-star routes per STL3:

1- go speed racer, 10+, hairpin/pinhead;
2- two kings and a pawn, 11, chessmen/queen;
3- the new yorker, 11, sandwich spire;
4- just do it, 11-, punch and judy;
5- lizard marmalade direct, 10+, punch and judy;
6- wild thing, 13, tin can alley;
7- R-4, 5.9, rupley tower d;
8- show of shows, 12-, balin wall;
9- trapezoid, 13, beaver wall;
10- hebe, 13+, beaver wall;
11- golden beaver, 13-, beaver wall;
12- rage to live, 13-, beaver wall;
13- nang, 10, blazing fin;
14- rocket science, 13, north fin;
15- horse of a different color, 11, munchkinland;
16- valhalla, 11, troll wall;
17- run like hell, 10, troll wall;
18- stranger in a strange land, 11+, troll wall;
19- quickdraw mcgraw, 10R, wheeler wall;
20- sidewinder, 10+, red diamond;
21- iron butterfly, 12, butterfly wall;
22- firefly, 12, butterfly wall;
23- the sampler, 12+, spectrum wall;
24- reef break, 11+, the reef;
25- you bastards, 11, south park;
26- swing set, 11, ravens;
27- raven maniac, 12-, ravens;
28- el curvo, 10+, ravens (4 stars p464, 3 stars p466);
29- if you bolt it they will come, 10, ravens;
30- coup d'état, 13-, orifice;
31- orifice politics, 12, orifice;
32- heel-a-monster, 13, orifice;
33- sir clipalot, 11-, fortress.

My personal 4-star 5.11 sport routes:

• Four Play (5.11-, Milagrosa)
• Two Kings And A Pawn (5.11-, Chessman)
• Just Do It (5.11-, Punch & Judy Towers)
• Good To Go (5.11-, Punch & Judy Towers)
• Horse Of A Different Color (5.11-, Munchkinland)
• Solar E-clips (5.11, Sun Spots)
• Armed Robbery (5.11, Jailhouse)
• Arizona Flyways (5.11, Anduriel Tower)
• Chunky Monkey (5.11, Milagrosa)
• You Bastards (5.11, South Park)
• Stranger in a Strange Land (5.11+, Troll Wall)
• Kick in the Nuts (5.11+, South Park)
• The Eagle's Gift (5.11+, Delta Dome)
• Spiderman (5.11+, The Steep)
• Swing Set (5.11+, The Ravens)
• Block Party (5.11+, The Ravens)

My personal 4-star low 5.12 sport routes:

• The Wizard (5.12-, Milagrosa)
• Forged In Hell (5.12-, Pumphouse)
• Show of Shows (5.12-, Balin Wall)
• Air Monsters (5.12-, North Fin)
• Premonition (5.12-, Middle Earth)
• Knights of the Wrong Tissue (5.12-, Knights Wall)
• Serial Driller (5.12-, Sky Valley)
• Jailbreak (5.12, Jailhouse)
• Randy Cook Lives! (5.12, Andy Cook Wall)
• Honker (5.12, Big Pine Towers)
• New Wave Direct (5.12, New Wave Wall)
• Tsunami (5.12, New Wave Wall)
• War Of The Worlds (5.12, Middle Earth)
• Raven Maniac (5.12, The Ravens)
• Hard Day at The Orifice (5.12, Orifice Wall)
• Orifice Politics (5.12, Orifice Wall)

There are still a lot of routes that I've yet to sample or send so my list is incomplete.

Upon further reflection Mountain Project's "You & This Area" search allows one to create on demand consensus best of lists; however these, while useful, suffer from popularity bias. There is something special about best of lists from individuals. I remember years ago jbak had lists of recommended 5.11s and 5.12s. I would always seek out these routes.

Thanks John!

Can ya'll recommend some areas low on the mtn for an hour or two just before sunset during the hot summer months? I'm looking for 10s and under, sport or trad after work. Slim pickins this time of year I know. IT Crack area is a bit stout.

I had Green Slabs in mind but it's sw facing and a little further up than I'd like.

Thanks
AK