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Routes in Delta Dome

Book of the Dead S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Crystal Meth S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eagle's Gift, The S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
East Crack T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
East Face Slab S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Fin -- S. Face S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fin Arete S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Hobo Sapien S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Journey to Ixtlan S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Nose, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Over Under Sideways Down S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Petty Tyrant S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Southwest Rib T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Summit access T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
West Face Direct S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: JBaker, JParks, Craig Kafura, April 2014
Page Views: 1,358 total, 30/month
Shared By: jbak on Apr 14, 2014
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Muy Excelente !!... Complicated, devious, and pretty pumpy. You could call it knob climbing, but there's much more to it... seams, pinches, underclings, side-pulls, thumbs... they just keep coming. Would be a good pure onsight. Much easier with the draws hung and a game plan (AKA beta).

Josie W did a pure onsight of the route on April 19 2014 and said it was 11c or 11+. And 4 stars.

Drilled by Tony Lusk but never redpointed. In spite of the fact that I think (?) I did the FA, I don't really feel ownership of this line. Tony found the crag, Tony found the line, Tony drilled most of the holes. I think of it as Tony's gift to Tucson climbers.

"The Eagle's Gift" is also a book by Carlos Castaneda that kept me from going crazy while tent-bound when it rained and snowed for 3 days in the Wind Rivers many years back.

Location

Middle of the NE face of the East Fin. Has a 2nd bolt permadraw to assist the sketchy clip.

Protection

Bolts, mostly non-SS.

Photos

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Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c/d
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.11c/d
This is the one to do if you make the trek. Aug 2, 2015
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
The climbing isn't too hard, but the beta isn't very obvious. This would definitely be a tricky onsight. Good route with some really fun movement and an awesome quartz pinch up high. Our party knocked loose rock off on pretty much every run we took on it, although with more traffic it should clean up well. Jun 28, 2015
jbak
  5.11c/d
jbak  
  5.11c/d
That was a very pretty on-sight Tigrita ! Apr 24, 2014
Josie
  5.11c/d
Josie  
  5.11c/d
So flippin' fun!! Keeps you thinking 'til you clip the anchors. Apr 23, 2014
jbak
  5.11c/d
jbak  
  5.11c/d
I talked to Jim. Different route. Apr 22, 2014
Pretty sure they cinched stopppers as we have done in the past. Apr 20, 2014
jbak
  5.11c/d
jbak  
  5.11c/d
He probably did the East Face or South Rib. They had hangers. This one didn't. Apr 18, 2014
This may be the route Jim did years ago. He said their was a super high quality 5.11 at this crag. You might talk to him and see if this is the one he did. Apr 18, 2014
jbak
  5.11c/d
jbak  
  5.11c/d
I agree that people should not be shy about posting ratings... as long as they have a fair bit of experience.

On this particular route: by the time I... fixed the anchor (TL put them in a rope-eating spot)... put hangers on the studs (TL's version of red-tagging)...fixed up 2 less-than-optimal bolt locations, I had lost perspective on the diff rating.

From a quality point-of-view, I'm tempted to give it 4 stars. Apr 18, 2014
Nah, not cranky about that. Just sayin' it is hard to rate stuff when you work a route and it feels or is rated harder than you usually climb easily and then you walk it on the redpoint. This is why I wish people would take a little time and post up on this site how many stars they think a route deserves and and what they would rate it if it is different from what is posted. Apr 18, 2014
jbak
  5.11c/d
jbak  
  5.11c/d
...just a cranky old man aren't ya ? I need you to rate it for me. Apr 17, 2014
I hiked three of my hardest redpoints. Should I rate them 12a which is as hard as they felt? Apr 17, 2014
jbak
  5.11c/d
jbak  
  5.11c/d
I was thinking 11+ or even 12- at first... the route is pretty complicated.

But with just 3 small pieces of beta in mind, I hiked the redpoint. It felt easier than "Don't Ask" at the Shed for example. Apr 16, 2014
JoeS
 
JoeS  
 
This one is really good! climbing is interesting and quite varied. Crux seemed to be hard 11, but it took a while to find the needed hold, so maybe just mid 11 on redpoint. A strong 3 stars for this one. Apr 16, 2014