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Routes in Big Pine Towers - East Face

Cat in the Hat S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Coronary Bypass S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Honker S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Pine In The Ass S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Prowess S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Hidetaka Suzuki, Ray Ringle
Page Views: 1,713 total, 12/month
Shared By: WSnyder on Feb 6, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

One of Mt. Lemmon’s best and has some of the most solid rock you will find on the mountain. Look for the route with the huge looped stainless bolts. The first ascent party skipped the boulder start by climbing the tree. Now days most people just stick clip the first bolt and yard up or do the hard start and add a letter grade to the difficulty. A few crack climbing skills can help early on (but not required) then the technical crux sequence comes. Get through that and hope your endurance is up to par because you have a long way to go on gently overhanging rock. Find the rests (one devious and one not hard to find) and it won’t be so bad.

Protection

Bolts, Chain Anchors

Photos

Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
ASCA update on old USE taper bolts 10/2015 Dec 4, 2015
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.12b
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.12b
The name Honker comes from the huge bolts on this route. Established in 1989 it was one of the first local routes put up by rap bolting and thus was initially chopped. The first ascentionists returned and placed the current, difficult to remove, bolts.

11 bolts to chains. Nov 17, 2013
This climb is fantastic. Varied movement, nice holds, with a pump that builds until the finish. The start is unfortunately marred by having to yard through, or doing a very painful and hard boulder problem, and then a few feet of funky rock. Beginning after the 2nd bolt it's all money. My quality grade reflects the climbing above this point. It's well worth slogging through things to get to the good stuff.

I found the grade a reasonable 12c if you don't go into the crack to rest - which you can do, but certainly wrecks the flow and the pump! Dec 9, 2012
A Tucson classic that is great to run laps on as it will make you strong but not skinny like Hidetaka. If you do this route keep in mind that there will be places to move left to the crack to shake out. Many people have done it this way including me the first time I ticked it. This may be the one chink in this cool routes armor. I don't usually like climbs that make you ask yourself or friends "is this hold/rest on route?" I have done it with and without moving left and moving left makes it easier. It is still a lot of fun and a fine accomplishment whichever way you do it. If numbers are a big deal take a letter off if you go left and rest. Mar 12, 2006