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Routes in Balin Wall

Erbanay T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Show of Shows T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Trad, 105 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, John Fowler, Dave Jones & Brent Olson (1990)
Page Views: 240 total · 8/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Oct 17, 2015
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

A Mount Lemmon classic, Show of Shows stylistically has it all: a boulder problem start, tiered ledges, thin face, and a vertical weakness. Atmospherically the crag provides stunning views of Bear Canyon below and Tucson in the distance. The route itself climbs mostly perfect stone. Definitely worth the hike on a cool or cloudy day.

While technically a traditional route, Show of Shows is essentially a sport route. The one or two token pieces are easy to place and on trivial ground.

Location

Show of Shows is located on the southeast face of the Balin Wall. To the left is Balin Bights the Bowline (5.11, BG) and to the right is Fowl Ayr (5.8+, BG).

Protection

To anchor: 12 bolts and 1 or 2 pieces in the .75 to 2 Camelot range. The anchor is two bolts and two leaver carabiners. 85 feet.

To summit: Perhaps another 2 bolts. Rappel off the back side of the formation. 105 feet.

I am unsure whether there is an anchor at the summit. Squeezing The Lemmon III suggests that there is no anchor but I have not confirmed. If the route does indeed lack an anchor, a new anchor at the summit would be ideal, assuming a 70m route reaches the ground. Adding chains to the existing two bolt anchor would be sufficient. The current anchor was a mess of old webbing when I found it.

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