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Routes in Middle Earth

Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Centennial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Opening S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Premonition S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pull Me Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Hot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby & David Luhen (1992)
Page Views: 1,198 total, 23/month
Shared By: RyanJohnson on Sep 15, 2013
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Bring your bag of tricks and smearing shoes for this one cause every ten feet the style changes but the footholds stay the same. Fun stemming in an alcove leads to an undercling traverse, followed by a few moves of desperate lay-backing, then a few hard crimpy moves leads to a bit o'jug hauling and a tricky roof encounter.

Location

Premonition is located in the middle cluster of routes at Middle Earth. Right of The Planet Eater and before the long slab routes at the right end of the wall. Look for a series of right facing shallow blocks leading to a short roof.

Though the climbing up to it is 5.easy, the first bolt is a good 20 feet off the deck.

Protection

Bolts, Chains.

Photos

Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
This climb is phenomenal! Very much recommended for those who enjoy delicate, technical lines such as War Of The Worlds and The Planet Eater. All three lines are classic and comprise what I refer to as the "Lord Of The Rubber" trilogy.

I suspect the first bolt is so high as to not intrude on Just a Fantasy. A 0.4 C4 may protect some of the runout while adding rope drag.

I also believe their is a chipped hold on this route. Apr 13, 2014