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Routes in Middle Earth

Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Centennial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Opening S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Premonition S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pull Me Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Hot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport
FA: Kevin O'Donnell & Ryan Courageous (2008)
Page Views: 1,139 total · 12/month
Shared By: Matt Fowls on Apr 17, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Listed as a project in Squeezing the Lemmon II, this route was sent by Kevin O'Donnell in 2008. It is characterized by steep and powerful climbing on good rock, with a variety of features. 3 boulder problems separated by easier climbing get you up to the chains. The hardest of the 3 is at the top, however there are a few good rests to regain energy.

this route climbs extremely well.

Location

located between Elfin Warrior and Delirious, this is the second bolt line on the left side of the wall.

Protection

very well-bolted

Photos

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Wasn't puffy weather today when Matt sent with the sun beating on the slopey rail. After the break, anyway, the crux is 6-8 moves of compression bouldering checking in around V8. We found a no-hands rest before the crux, which slightly detracts from the quality.

The route is fun and unique for Lemmon; nothing to write home about, but "if you have the means, I highly recommend it."

Nice work, Matt. May 22, 2013
Matt Fowls
Tucson, Arizona
 
Matt Fowls   Tucson, Arizona
 
A large portion of why I enjoy this route is precisely because it incorporates some elements of harder bouldering into sport climbing (IE, challenging holds where conditions _do_ matter). Another example demonstrating how subjectivity permeates our sport. I sent the route today in 80 degree weather. Really wasn't so bad and I had a good time doing it. May 22, 2013
Has anybody got the new FA since the jug hold at the end of the crux was pulled off? Definitely much harder now... May 5, 2012
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.13-
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
  5.13-
I was expecting much more out of this line from what the comments said. Really the 'whole' route revolves around one hold. This really slopey rail that if you don't have cold conditions aka puffy weather then it will be hard to stick. Oct 26, 2011
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
Fun route indeed. The upper boulder is way stiff, and it seems that some nice cool temps would really help with sticking to some of those holds. Also, I left a draw high on the route (6.4.11). I will be back for it so this should not be considered "booty". Thanks. Jun 4, 2011
Matt Fowls
Tucson, Arizona
 
Matt Fowls   Tucson, Arizona
 
This is one of the coolest routes that i have ever been on. Nice job Kevin! Apr 17, 2010

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