Type: Sport
FA: Kevin O'Donnell & Ryan Courageous (2008)
Page Views: 1,191 total · 11/month
Shared By: Matt Fowls on Apr 17, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

Listed as a project in Squeezing the Lemmon II, this route was sent by Kevin O'Donnell in 2008. It is characterized by steep and powerful climbing on good rock, with a variety of features. 3 boulder problems separated by easier climbing get you up to the chains. The hardest of the 3 is at the top, however there are a few good rests to regain energy.

this route climbs extremely well.

Location

located between Elfin Warrior and Delirious, this is the second bolt line on the left side of the wall.

Protection

very well-bolted

Photos

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Matt Fowls
Tucson, Arizona
  5.13b
Matt Fowls   Tucson, Arizona
  5.13b
This is one of the coolest routes that i have ever been on. Nice job Kevin! Apr 17, 2010
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
 
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
 
Fun route indeed. The upper boulder is way stiff, and it seems that some nice cool temps would really help with sticking to some of those holds. Jun 4, 2011
Pat Mac
Salt Lake City
  5.13-
Pat Mac   Salt Lake City
  5.13-
I was expecting much more out of this line from what the comments said. Really the 'whole' route revolves around one hold. This really slopey rail that if you don't have cold conditions aka puffy weather then it will be hard to stick. Oct 26, 2011
Has anybody got the new FA since the jug hold at the end of the crux was pulled off? Definitely much harder now... May 5, 2012
Matt Fowls
Tucson, Arizona
  5.13b
Matt Fowls   Tucson, Arizona
  5.13b
A large portion of why I enjoy this route is precisely because it incorporates some elements of harder bouldering into sport climbing (IE, challenging holds where conditions _do_ matter). Another example demonstrating how subjectivity permeates our sport. I sent the route today in 80 degree weather. Really wasn't so bad and I had a good time doing it. May 22, 2013
Wasn't puffy weather today when Matt sent with the sun beating on the slopey rail. After the break, anyway, the crux is 6-8 moves of compression bouldering checking in around V8. We found a no-hands rest before the crux, which slightly detracts from the quality.

The route is fun and unique for Lemmon; nothing to write home about, but "if you have the means, I highly recommend it."

Nice work, Matt. May 22, 2013