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Routes in Middle Earth

Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Centennial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Opening S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Premonition S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pull Me Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Hot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: EFR,JSt,'08
Page Views: 154 total, 1/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Jun 19, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Climbs the big roof on the left hand side of the cliff. Tricky sequential moves at the second bolt and a cool move to an undercling then hard moves over the roof lead to a no hands rest. If not for the no hander it might get 3 stars. The slightly overhanging second half is no give away and involves palming up the rounded edge of a shallow corner then a hard traverse right to a huge jug. The upper section is the polar opposite of the first 25 feet.

Location

Starts at the right edge of the big roof you walk under when you get to the base of the cliff.

Protection

4 permadraws and 6 bolts to leaver biner anchors.
JesseJ
 
JesseJ  
 
Pulling the low roof is really fun, then a full rest before tricky sloping rails and some strong moves to the chains. Felt more like a boulder problem right before a short climb. Apr 4, 2011
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
The top of this route is devious. I certainly felt more like an elf than a warrior on this one. Mar 14, 2011