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Routes in Middle Earth

Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Centennial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Opening S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Premonition S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pull Me Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Hot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby 1992
Page Views: 2,022 total · 14/month
Shared By: WSnyder on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


51 Opinions

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Description

This is a really good moderately overhanging 5.11. Crux down low leads to larger holds but pumpy climbing with a redpoint crux up high. There are a couple of kneebars on this route if desired. Scott originally rated this climb 11a. Try it and see what you think.

Location

In the alcove 4th complete bolt line from the left up on the right hand platform. The route with the largest holds.

Protection

Bolts, Chains

Photos

Mitch Beiser
  5.11+
Mitch Beiser  
  5.11+
Good pump! Great big feature/holds that are hard to come by. Very enjoyable. Seems the low crux is very height dependent. Taller = easier. I agree with the 2.5 stars. Tons of glue yet I am glad the holds still remain to keep the route the 11 that it is. Apr 12, 2015
Chen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b
Chen   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a/b
Just did this yesterday. Love the big moves on jugs. I think it is slightly harder than Steve's Arete but easier than Armed Robbery. May 27, 2012
Brent Silvester
  5.10d
Brent Silvester  
  5.10d
Ya'll are crazy, and maybe old. Oct 9, 2009
Jimbo  
11a if your tall with a plus ape index.

10d is a "bag" of Olympian proportions.

I think Planet Eater is easier and better than the Breeze.

I'm old and wise so I know what I'm talking about.

Thanks for the new biners Luke!! Great example for all to follow. (hint, hint) Oct 8, 2009
Brent Silvester
  5.10d
Brent Silvester  
  5.10d
I guess I must have found all the jugs, and managed to skip the bad holds. Perhaps, someone with less reach, or shorter than me might find it more difficult. It was originally rated .11a anyway . . . so .10d isn't that far off.

Comparing this to Planet Eater, I think this route is easier. I would imagine with wet epoxy holds though, this would feel considerably more difficult. Oct 7, 2009
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.11c
Changed out the old biners with new ones at the end of July. Nice shiny wire gates up there for all. Aug 6, 2009
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.11c
Water runs just to the left of the climb and over a few of the upper holds after its rained. This can make things more exciting, but it may not matter as its just .10D. Jul 4, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
  5.11+
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.11+
I noticed those nice biners are getting pretty worn. If you are planning to TR the thing then use your own draws. If you are afraid you won't make it to the top, remember you can always yard the belayers side of the rope to get up to your draws. Another thing that help reduce wear is to flip one of them over so they aren't both wearing at the gate opening end. Thanks Jul 4, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11+
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11+
11a hahaha!!! Jun 19, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
this is an excellent climb. if you're working your way through the 5.11s on lemmon be sure to get on this gem; you don't find many climbs at the grade that are this steep around tucson. Mar 23, 2009
Braxtron
...
  5.11+
Braxtron   ...
  5.11+
I really enjoyed this climb. Fun moves. May 27, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.11c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.11c
Steep and pumpy. Making the reach between the 2nd and 3rd bolts seems far at the end of the day. Epoxy holds are a nice touch. If they were to blow, this thing would be nearly impossible. May 12, 2008
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
5.11a if all hold's stay in place. Those chaulky slick hold's make it hard enough on TR. Aug 19, 2007
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.11c
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.11c
Someone was nice enough to leave two nice biners at the top, making it easy to go up and down without having to untie.

This is a pure and simple steep jug haul. My type of climb! I didn't lead it but it will be a fun lead next time! Top rope it through the biners so that if you pop off you gotta start over:) May 13, 2007
GDS
  5.11c
GDS  
  5.11c
Highly recommend bringing 2 double-length runners for the belay stance at the base of this climb. Jul 14, 2006
jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
I don't really like giving this route 3 stars, but 2 doesn't seem right either. We should be able to assign HALF stars. Apr 10, 2006