Elevation: 6,955 ft
GPS: 32.38, -110.702 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 16,201 total · 100/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland
Today
85°F - 63°F 29°C - 17°C
Mon
82°F - 61°F 28°C - 16°C
Tue
81°F - 61°F 27°C - 16°C
Wed
81°F - 62°F 27°C - 17°C
Thu
81°F - 62°F 27°C - 17°C
Fri
82°F - 62°F 28°C - 17°C

Description

Middle Earth is a stellar crag consisting of mostly sport routes with grades from 5.9 to 5.13. The left side of the crag consists of bouldery, overhung lines starting at 5.11. This section of the crag stays shaded until 3pm. The middle of the crag features a trilogy of classic, vertical, friction routes: War Of The Worlds, The Planet Eater, and Premonition. The right side is marked by long less-than-vertical pitches and sees sun earlier, at perhaps 11am. Conditions are best during the spring and fall months; however, it is possible to climb the left hand routes during the summer. Some routes have high quality second and third pitches; some require a second rope to descend. There is cell phone reception (Verizon, April 2016).

Getting There

Pass Hoodoo Vista Point on your right at mile post 15. Park at the very next pullout on the downhill (left) side of the road. This parking lot is next to a natural rock bridge and is used to access both Middle Earth and The Helmet. From the north or upper end of the pullout, hike up a gully. Prior to the crest the trail forks. Take the right branch for Middle Earth. Continue right along the ridge line before circling back and downhill to the left. The hike takes 15-20 minutes and accesses the crag from the left.

Parking For Middle Earth & The Helmet

25 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 35
Middle Earth
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 26
Silmarillion
Sport
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
 16
Pull Me Up
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 41
The Planet Eater
Sport 2 pitches
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 54
The Breeze
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 9
Bobbin' for Hobbits
Sport
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
 3
Centennial
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 41
Delirious
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 10
Premonition
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 14
Irresistible
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 16
War Of The Worlds
Sport 2 pitches
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
 4
The Bump
Sport
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
 5
Infectious
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Middle Earth
 35
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Silmarillion
 26
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pull Me Up
 16
5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b Sport
The Planet Eater
 41
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 2 pitches
The Breeze
 54
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bobbin' for Hobbits
 9
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Centennial
 3
5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a Sport
Delirious
 41
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Premonition
 10
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Irresistible
 14
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
War Of The Worlds
 16
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 2 pitches
The Bump
 4
5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b Sport
Infectious
 5
5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c Sport
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