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Routes in Middle Earth

Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Centennial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Opening S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Premonition S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pull Me Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Hot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Elevation: 6,955 ft
GPS: 32.38, -110.702 Google Map · Climbing Map
Shared By: Hendrixson on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick
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Description

Middle Earth is a stellar crag consisting of mostly sport routes with grades from 5.9 to 5.13. The left side of the crag consists of bouldery, overhung lines starting at 5.11. This section of the crag stays shaded until 3pm. The middle of the crag features a trilogy of classic, vertical, friction routes: War Of The Worlds, The Planet Eater, and Premonition. The right side is marked by long less-than-vertical pitches and sees sun earlier, at perhaps 11am. Conditions are best during the spring and fall months; however, it is possible to climb the left hand routes during the summer. Some routes have high quality second and third pitches; some require a second rope to descend. There is cell phone reception (Verizon, April 2016).

Getting There

Pass Hoodoo Vista Point on your right at mile post 15. Park at the very next pullout on the downhill (left) side of the road. This parking lot is next to a natural rock bridge and is used to access both Middle Earth and The Helmet. From the north or upper end of the pullout, hike up a gully. Prior to the crest the trail forks. Take the right branch for Middle Earth. Continue right along the ridge line before circling back and downhill to the left. The hike takes 15-20 minutes and accesses the crag from the left.

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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
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J F M A M J J A S O N D
J F M A M J J A S O N D
We are wrapping up our trip to Mt Lemmon today. Love this place!
However, I'm hoping that soon in the future, something can be done about the lack of good trails and info on approaches. Today we tried to find Middle Earth.
After finding middle earth after an hour or more of some trail, but mostly bush whacking, I'd like to suggest something, anything, to help protect the fragile systems up here from getting trampled because of it not having clear descriptions. We used the book and this app for info.
A more direct description after you are in the trail would be something like, "go straight to the top of the ridge in the gully. (Why is there any mention of 60' up?). From the top of the ridge you can see the top of middle earth down and right. Follow the only trail on the ridge to the right side where you can drop in..."
Telling people to go to a saddle and then "back down"...??? Huh?
Make some trail markers! Why this isn't standard? Red tape, unsightly yes, but better than crashing throw manzanilla and scrub oak. Access fund uses them. Copy the idea? Make your own out of form stakes and reflective tape?
We are excited to donate to arizonas climbing fund for stuff like this as are LOTS of others that shared the same sentiment on this trip. I'd even place markers in the way to crags if this was made available at local shops to help with the work load.
Love that mtn, and we hope it gets the love it deserves! Dec 30, 2016
EWod  
Perfect John! Nice work. Apr 26, 2016
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
I updated the 'Description' and 'Getting There' sections. I also filled in the missing FA information. Let me know if changes or additions need to be made.

Additionally let me know if you would like to improve other Southern Arizona areas -- I can reassign ownership. I believe parking and trailhead information / photos are incredibly useful. I also am interested in shade and cell reception details. Apr 24, 2016
WAGbag
Denver, CO
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
The "Getting there" section of most areas in AZ could use a little help. For middle earth, try this:
After mp15 you will pass Hoodoo Vista Point on your right, the very next pullout (on your left) is for Middle Earth and The Helmet (just below 2 blocky towers). Start at the upper end of the pullout and walk up the gully. Just before you reach the crest cairns will either continue straight up (Helmet) or go right (middle earth). Follow right and sidehill (uphill to right) above a large slab area then circle back around left to arrive at the climber's left side of the crag. Apr 18, 2012
Adam Block is a bad@#&! Yesterday he sent War of the Worlds and The Bump. The Bump went 2nd go after not getting on it for several years.
Not bad for a day of climbing. Last time I take him to work my project...
Good job Adam! May 15, 2011
jbak  
Christian....the short answer is no...not faster. But it's not that much longer either. Sep 12, 2007
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Would it be faster to approach Middle Earth via the Lizard Rock area? Sep 12, 2007
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
There are several(at least 2) bolts missing hangers left of "The Breeze". I think the route left of the breeze has all of its hard ware but the two left of that are missing some stuff. Maybe more, I am not sure. May 14, 2007

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