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Elevation: 6,955 ft
GPS: 32.3804, -110.70245
Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 34,073 total · 157/month
Shared By: Hendrixson on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: adrian montaƱo, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen

Description Suggest change

Middle Earth is a stellar crag consisting of mostly sport routes with grades from 5.9 to 5.13. The left side of the crag consists of bouldery, overhung lines starting at 5.11. This section of the crag stays shaded until 3pm. The middle of the crag features a trilogy of classic, vertical, friction routes: War Of The Worlds, The Planet Eater, and Premonition. The right side is marked by long less-than-vertical pitches and sees sun earlier, at perhaps 11am. Conditions are best during the spring and fall months; however, it is possible to climb the left hand routes during the summer. Some routes have high quality second and third pitches; some require a second rope to descend. There is cell phone reception (Verizon, April 2016).

Getting There Suggest change

Pass Hoodoo Vista Point on your right at mile post 15. Park at the very next pullout on the downhill (left) side of the road. This parking lot is next to a natural rock bridge and is used to access both Middle Earth and The Helmet. From the north or upper end of the pullout, hike up a gully. Prior to the crest the trail forks. Take the right branch for Middle Earth. Continue right along the ridge line before circling back and downhill to the left. The hike takes 15-20 minutes and accesses the crag from the left.

Parking For Middle Earth & The Helmet

28 Total Climbs

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Location: Middle Earth Change
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Classic Climbing Routes at Middle Earth

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 52
Middle Earth
Sport
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
 48
Silmarillion
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 35
Pull Me Up
Sport
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
 19
Grand Opening
Sport
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 69
The Planet Eater
Sport 3 pitches
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
 7
Hobbitual Offender
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 60
The Breeze
Sport
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 13
Bobbin' for Hobbits
Sport
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
 7
Centennial
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 51
Delirious
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 7
Hobbit In A Blender
Sport
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
 22
Premonition
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 17
Irresistible
Sport
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
 30
War Of The Worlds
Sport 2 pitches
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
 4
Elfin Warrior
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Middle Earth
 52
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Silmarillion
 48
5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Pull Me Up
 35
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Grand Opening
 19
5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c Sport
The Planet Eater
 69
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport 3 pitches
Hobbitual Offender
 7
5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c Sport
The Breeze
 60
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Bobbin' for Hobbits
 13
5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Centennial
 7
5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a Sport
Delirious
 51
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Hobbit In A Blender
 7
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Premonition
 22
5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a Sport
Irresistible
 17
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport
War Of The Worlds
 30
5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b Sport 2 pitches
Elfin Warrior
 4
5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in Middle Earth »

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