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Routes in Middle Earth

Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Centennial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Opening S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Premonition S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pull Me Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Hot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Jason Mullins 1992
Page Views: 2,212 total, 16/month
Shared By: WSnyder on Apr 7, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


38 Opinions

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Description

Another of the must do 12-'s on the mountain which will test your endurance. Starts straight up for a couple of bolts then traverses slightly right and up a ways to the rest ledge. Continue past the ledge to some tricky lower angle climbing to the anchors.

Location

In the alcove 1st complete bolt line to the left. There is an open project left of this that was only partially bolted in the past.

Protection

Bolts, Chains

Photos

Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
A perfect test piece with a wide variety of angles and movement, requiring both finesse and fitness to reach the chains. Mar 25, 2016
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12b
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12b
Just did it two weeks ago. 5 or 6 ft. traverse to the right then straight up to the ledge. From the ledge you can move left and go over the bolts, hard. Or stay right of bolts for two or three bolts then move back left. Apr 22, 2012
iancevans
  5.12-
iancevans  
  5.12-
You may have been off route WAGbag...? It pretty much goes straight up after the second or third bolt... there are a couple of other lines that branch off right (Simply Irresistable, and Irresistable) with some bolts close together that could lead to confusion. I don't know if I can give it the full four stars, but 1 star is pretty stingy -- as good as almost any 12a on Lemmon. So it seems to me, anyway. Apr 21, 2012
WAGbag
Denver, CO
 
WAGbag   Denver, CO  
 
2 bolts up then traverse directly right until you are well right of the angling bolt line. Four stars through the first five bolts but you way want to bring a walkie-talkie so you can here your belayer over the top of the powerful sucking sound you'll hear as stars are sucked out of the climb with each move above, wandering way right, way left with no discernable flow or natural line. Apr 18, 2012
Matt Fowls
Tucson, Arizona
  5.12a
Matt Fowls   Tucson, Arizona
  5.12a
thanks eric!

i appreciate the info. Apr 8, 2010
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12b
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12b
Matt it is 13 and Kevin O'Donnell who used to work at the gym put it up. Bottom is funky involving a stick clip of the second bolt as you climb so far left. I can't remember. Vince Bates probably remembers or someone should have Kevin's # they can pm you with it. Apr 6, 2010
Matt Fowls
Tucson, Arizona
  5.12a
Matt Fowls   Tucson, Arizona
  5.12a
does anyone have any information about the route to the left of delirious?

ie) grade and name?

thanks! Apr 6, 2010
JoeS
  5.12a
JoeS  
  5.12a
I guess I'm not so bothered by the gluing as some. I'm glad the holds were glued and didn't fall off. It made for a fun climb. Feb 11, 2010
Jeremiah Johnson
Contoocook, NH
  5.12a
Jeremiah Johnson   Contoocook, NH
  5.12a
Most of this route would fall off if it wasn't glued on. Fun moves, okay, but not classic by any stretch of the imagination. Sep 7, 2009
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a/b
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12a/b
Added biners for lowering off the chains at the top - 6.09 Jul 4, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
  5.12b
1Eric Rhicard  
  5.12b
There is now a new route left of Delirious. Bolted by Jason Mullins it was redpointed by Kevin early this year. 2008 May 23, 2008
Braxtron
...
  5.12-
Braxtron   ...
  5.12-
Sweet, sustained route. 13 bolts, I believe. I think it's closer to 80' than 60', though. May 18, 2008
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a/b
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12a/b
Could not agree more. It does not get more classic than this. If you can ignore the copious amounts of epoxy on the climb it is hard to rival the movement on this climb. Sticking to the left side of Middle Earth is a great way to get strong. Jun 24, 2007