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Routes in Middle Earth

Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Centennial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gift that keeps on giving., The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Opening S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Premonition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pull Me Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Hot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
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Type: Sport, 160 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Hathaway (1992)
Page Views: 2,496 total · 22/month
Shared By: E IV on Feb 23, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


37 Opinions

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Description [Suggest Change]

Slabby technical start to a lieback to jugs as it gets steeper.

Location [Suggest Change]

Just right of a bolted arete (War of the Worlds), this climb goes straight up the face.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts and chains

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.11b/c
Wasps = no stars. I once got stung while leading at Willow Canyon Crags. No me gusta!!!!! Feb 23, 2009
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
I can top that....when I first led this route (1993 ?) someone was shooting a gun at me from the cabin area across the canyon. Feb 23, 2009
Daniel Cohn  
 
This is a great climb when there are no wasps. I have never seen them there before so maybe its seasonal. Feb 24, 2009
RAID!!! For the wasps not the bullets. Feb 24, 2009
Andy Bennett
Tucson, AZ
Andy Bennett   Tucson, AZ
We did this one Mar 22, but didn't have to tangle with the wasps. But, then again, it was about 50 degrees and super windy. Mebe it's a cold thing and they'll emerge when it heats up? Mar 29, 2009
E IV
Las Vegas, NV
 
E IV   Las Vegas, NV
 
All evidence of the wasps was gone today. A really good climb that punches you in the face if you think it's over before the chains. Apr 25, 2009
The topo in the book breaks this out in three pitches and it seems like it might be tough to link 1&2 for only two pitches. The total length seems to be closer to 260'

When doing all three pitches, is it possible to rap to the ground in two raps with one rope? The book made it sound like two 80' raps get back down. Unless we missed something, the first rap (last pitch) was way more than half of a rope 130'. Schenanigans made up the difference.

This felt like a very sustained and interesting outing. Quite long and highly recommended. May 4, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
"jbaker" wrote:I can top that....when I first led this route (1993 ?) someone was shooting a gun at me from the cabin area across the canyon.
holy crap john!

i bet he still sent. :) Sep 8, 2009
jbak .
tucson,az
jbak .   tucson,az
I was in the middle of a cruxy, kind-of-runout section up high when the bullets starting landing. My belayer said "Jesus...someone's shooting at us". My brain did a quick calculation of the chances of someone hitting me from across the canyon and came up with: don't sweat it, keep climbing.

My belayer and everyone else at the crag starting yelling loudly to get the shooter's attention. I'm assuming the shooter didn't know there were people on the rock. The shooting stopped pretty quickly.

Gives new meaning to the term "objective danger". Dec 16, 2009
Did this in my Muiras and fell off the slab a couple of times as well as a bit higher when my feet slipped. It was pretty warm out. Borrowed Murdock's Acopas and it was like having glue on my feet. I want some of that rubber for my slab climbing shoes! Jun 7, 2010
JesseJ
 
JesseJ  
 
Only climbed the first pitch yesterday, but it was super fun. Slab down low was really hard for me, but maybe Boosters aren't the best slab shoe... Apr 4, 2011
Chen
Tucson, AZ
Chen   Tucson, AZ
Great route. Would be one of my favorite if I can skip the slab section at the bottom. May 27, 2012
Mt Lemmon classic, potpourri of climbing styles ! Feb 12, 2017
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.11b/c
Someone please do this 4 star climb justice with a better description. May 21, 2018

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