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The Planet Eater
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British
Avg: 3.6 from 67
votes
Routes in Middle Earth
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Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Centennial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Elevenses S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Gift that keeps on giving., The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Grand Opening S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c |
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Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R |
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Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Premonition S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Pull Me Up S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Red Hot S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
| Type: | Sport, 250 ft (76 m), 3 pitches |
| FA: | Scott Ayers, Mark Hathaway (1992) |
| Page Views: | 3,951 total · 23/month |
| Shared By: | Luke Bertelsen on Feb 23, 2009 |
| Admins: | adrian montano, Greg Opland, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman, Luke Bertelsen |
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Description
Possibly the best sport 5.11 on the mountain, and that is not a designation that gets tossed about lightly. From bottom to top this climb has amazing climbing in almost every style you could want. Commonly people will just do the great first pitch, but there is definitely more great climbing to be had on the upper pitches as well. DO THIS CLIMB !
Pitch 1 - The money pitch for sure. Start with the tricky slab that is a barrier to entry for some people. As the wall steepens to vertical you will navigate cracks and corners that continue to change sides up to a fun and short roof sequence that you pull on good holds. Exit left if you are continuing upward and straight up to an anchor made from Metolius rapp hangers if you're just climbing the first pitch.
Pitch 2 - A short left trending pitch climbed on large holds. Great movement, but unfortunately over too quickly. Commonly linked with the third pitch.
Pitch 3 - A wonderful and thought provoking technical pitch taking you to the top of the formation. Two variations exist here with an obvious branching point 2/3 of the way up. The left variation is slightly harder, but both are in the 5.11 range.
This climb should be on every Mount Lemmon climbers to-do list.
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