For next few days, REI will DOUBLE your gift to the Access Fund - up to $65,000. Donate Now!
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Middle Earth

Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Centennial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Gift that keeps on giving., The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Gift, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Grand Opening S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Premonition S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pull Me Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Hot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Eden Masters, '92
Page Views: 1,264 total · 10/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


22 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description [Suggest Change]

Mostly thin face and slabby with a couple easier sections tossed in. Good variety. A bit run out in places, but mostly on easier ground. Has a second pitch but I haven't done it.

Location [Suggest Change]

Two routes left of "Middle Earth", climbs in and left of a large seam about 20 feet up. Rap to anchors on "You Betchy..." and rap again to the ground.

Protection [Suggest Change]

Bolts & bolt anchors

Photos

Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Pitch 1 is 15 bolts to anchors.
Pitch 2 is 8 bolts to anchors.

The route is too long to be combined into a single 60m pitch (bulge before roof); even with a 70m we came up just short (roof). My 70m might have been shortened as there wasn't much difference between the 60m and 70m.

The second pitch starts dull but ends with a great roof 200ft off the deck. Awesome! Apr 22, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10
Another great slab climb with very well bolted thin cruxes. May 19, 2013
Oreo Cookie
  5.10b
Oreo Cookie  
  5.10b
Exciting to be sure, not to mention sustained due to the length.

If you want to avoid the run outs, there were some spots for nuts or other passive gear. I remember wishing I'd brought my set.

Anchors were hangers with no rings or chains, but they were the super thick kind. If you're feeling generous a donation of a couple quick links wouldn't hurt so that you can avoid the edges of the hangers, but I'm not local so maybe that was done intentionally. I ended up rapping way to the right to the chains on Earth Angel to avoid needing to rap twice on hangers. Oct 31, 2017
Justin Headley   Tucson
Oreo Cookie, the "super thick" hangers are probably Metolius Rap Hangers, which, according to the manufacturer, are safe to thread the rope through for rapping. Nov 9, 2017

More About Silmarillion

Printer-Friendly