Type: Sport, 150 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Eden Masters, '92
Page Views: 1,306 total · 9/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Mostly thin face and slabby with a couple easier sections tossed in. Good variety. A bit run out in places, but mostly on easier ground. Has a second pitch but I haven't done it.

Location

Two routes left of "Middle Earth", climbs in and left of a large seam about 20 feet up. Rap to anchors on "You Betchy..." and rap again to the ground.

Protection

Bolts & bolt anchors

Photos

Hendrixson
Littleton, CO
  5.10b
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
  5.10b
Pitch 1 is 15 bolts to anchors.
Pitch 2 is 8 bolts to anchors.

The route is too long to be combined into a single 60m pitch (bulge before roof); even with a 70m we came up just short (roof). My 70m might have been shortened as there wasn't much difference between the 60m and 70m.

The second pitch starts dull but ends with a great roof 200ft off the deck. Awesome! Apr 22, 2012
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10
Another great slab climb with very well bolted thin cruxes. May 19, 2013
Oreo Cookie
  5.10b
Oreo Cookie  
  5.10b
Exciting to be sure, not to mention sustained due to the length.

If you want to avoid the run outs, there were some spots for nuts or other passive gear. I remember wishing I'd brought my set.

Anchors were hangers with no rings or chains, but they were the super thick kind. If you're feeling generous a donation of a couple quick links wouldn't hurt so that you can avoid the edges of the hangers, but I'm not local so maybe that was done intentionally. I ended up rapping way to the right to the chains on Earth Angel to avoid needing to rap twice on hangers. Oct 31, 2017
Justin Headley   Tucson
Oreo Cookie, the "super thick" hangers are probably Metolius Rap Hangers, which, according to the manufacturer, are safe to thread the rope through for rapping. Nov 9, 2017