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Routes in Middle Earth

Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Centennial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Opening S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Premonition S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pull Me Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Hot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 120 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby (1992)
Page Views: 979 total, 8/month
Shared By: Daniel Cohn on May 12, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

The start is a little tricky and then it eases off a bit. The challenging and fun part of the climb is the middle section which is quality, but pretty thin climbing. The route goes left and crosses the magnificent line of Centennial. You can double rap down, but we found that one 60 M rope reached when stretched to the max.

Location

the last bolted route on the south side of Middle Earth

Protection

a lot of quickdraws

Photos

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Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11a
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11a
This is an absolutely fantastic line! One of the top routes I have done here (Along with Crows Nest, Nang, Mean Mistreater). Where are all the climbers?
I thought the moves just past the second bolt were harder than 10+ even for Mt Lemmon. The next 100+ feet were left leaning 5.10 lie-offs on small crips with cross over after cross over. There are a few body tension rests, but sustained for a considerable distance. Rack the draws on your left hip - this is where you are pulling them from. A must do if you come to this wall. May 19, 2013
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.10d
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.10d
A great thinker of a route that stays solid at the grade until the last two bolts. Highly recommended. Sep 24, 2011
One of the best 10s/11s on the mountain, indeed. Puzzling, all up in your grill moves.--posted for that day's ropegun :-) Nov 8, 2010
Jimbo  
The best of the 5.10s on Middle Earth. Many puzzling moves but never so steep you can't hang on and figure it out. Great stuff from start to finish. Jun 3, 2007
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
"Put me down" variation. At the bolt just below the overhang(or the one below that), traverse over to the chains on "Earth Angel".

This is good if you want to toprope the first "pitch".

It's still 5.10c/d I think, and about 8 bolts. May 19, 2007