Type: Sport, 155 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, Jack Janesky, '92
Page Views: 1,723 total · 11/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

Three crux sections interspersed with easier climbing makes this interesting but not too sustained. This end of the wall is very slabby and thin, especially compared to the overhanging routes on the left end.

Slabby start is easier for taller folks. Runout on easier but not super easy ground, so be careful. Next crux is at a bulgy corner followed by easier moves to thin section at top. Fun climb. Expect to use your feet.

There is a second pitch to Simarillion to the right which looks accessible from Middle Earth.

Location

Two raps required to descend. Rap to anchors on You Betchy It's Sketchy about halfway to ground then rap again.

At the right end of the wall, before turning the corner, there are several routes not easily determined. Best to find Earth Angel (5.9) around the corner in front of the tree and count left. Middle Earth starts up a slab to a big flake and there is a good picture of the flake in Squeezing the Lemmon.

Protection

Bolts & bolt anchors.

Photos