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Routes in Middle Earth

Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Centennial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Opening S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Premonition S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pull Me Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Hot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 155 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Mark Colby, Jack Janesky, '92
Page Views: 1,476 total, 11/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Aug 6, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


31 Opinions

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Description

Three crux sections interspersed with easier climbing makes this interesting but not too sustained. This end of the wall is very slabby and thin, especially compared to the overhanging routes on the left end.

Slabby start is easier for taller folks. Runout on easier but not super easy ground, so be careful. Next crux is at a bulgy corner followed by easier moves to thin section at top. Fun climb. Expect to use your feet.

There is a second pitch to Simarillion to the right which looks accessible from Middle Earth.

Location

Two raps required to descend. Rap to anchors on You Betchy It's Sketchy about halfway to ground then rap again.

At the right end of the wall, before turning the corner, there are several routes not easily determined. Best to find Earth Angel (5.9) around the corner in front of the tree and count left. Middle Earth starts up a slab to a big flake and there is a good picture of the flake in Squeezing the Lemmon.

Protection

Bolts & bolt anchors.

Photos

Abby S.  
Better to rap to the anchors on You Betchy It's Sketchy, like the description says. And a 60 works. Jun 6, 2016
kletterlisa  
 
There are 14 bolts on this route. You can lower to the chains of "Earth Angel" with a 70m rope and rap from there. Jun 4, 2016
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.10
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.10
Very nice route, bolts are perfect, the "run-outs" are on easier terrain and typical for a well bolted slab type climb so are not scary. May 19, 2013
Cody M
Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Cody M   Tucson, AZ
  5.10
Awesome long long route. Multiple cruxes, but I thought there were plenty of bolts where you want them. Fun movement that's not immediately obvious - like one big puzzle. Mar 24, 2012
Chris Craig
5.10b/c
Chris Craig  
5.10b/c
I'm not brave, but the runout is really easy. Sep 5, 2010
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.10c PG13
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.10c PG13
15-20' runout between last bolt and anchors. On easier but not trivial section. Jun 21, 2008