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Routes in Middle Earth

Bobbin' for Hobbits S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Breeze, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bump, The S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Centennial S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Delirious S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Earth Angel S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Elfin Warrior S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Fireball S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Grand Opening S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Hobbit In A Blender S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Hobbitual Offender S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Infectious S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Irresistible S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Just a Fantasy T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Middle Earth S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Planet Eater, The S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Premonition S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Pull Me Up S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Red Hot S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
S'Blended S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Silmarillion S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
War Of The Worlds S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
You Betchy It's Sketchy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Scott Ayers, Ray Ringle, '92
Page Views: 720 total, 6/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Sep 10, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

Starts with a short lieback seam, ends with easier face climbing. In the between is lots of slab. Very thin and fairly technical, makes you appreciate sticky rubber.

Location

Between "Silmarillion" and "Middle Earth" near the right end of the cliff. Starts up right-facing crack. The anchors on this climb are the intermediate rap anchors to get off "Silmarillion", "Middle Earth", and "Pull Me Up".

Protection

9 bolts to bolted anchors

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c
After 12 years of not visiting the area I ventured down to ME this weekend. This was the first route we did. I chose not to lead it and just tagged along on the TR. No falls, but believe me, it could have happened anytime. Those opening moves can be slick and an eye opener right out of bed.

You betcha it's sketchy!! May 12, 2008
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
Hell no Andy, I'll do "Middle Earth" and rap down to the "Sketchy" Anchors instead :-) We should get out there before it gets too cold. Sep 15, 2007
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
Oh ya, I forgot too mention I didn't lead this route! I'll have to get "Christian" to lead it again so I can TR it again. Sep 15, 2007
Christian
Casa do Cacete
Christian   Casa do Cacete
I somehow managed to onsight this thing, maybe because the alternative was decking..I guess with a really skilled belayer you could maybe stay off the ground if you blew it near the (2nd or 3rd?)bolt..Can't quite remember which clip gives the route its name..

I don't think I'll ever try to lead it again hehe Sep 10, 2007
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
The crux slab on this climb is an eye opener. Sep 10, 2007