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Routes in Main Wall

Bad Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Common Wealth S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Community Service S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ecstatic Electricity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
For the People S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Play S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Been Robbed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Lonely Eagle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Litheon Flux S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lugee Head S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Headwound Harry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Send It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Vacation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Sheets To The Wind S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Header S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Play T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Four Play) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Right of Triple Play) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Mixed Route T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valentine Arete S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Valentine Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Milagrosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wizard, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Arqueso, Ron Farrell, Tony Lusk, Mike Witt (1990)
Page Views: 2,617 total · 19/month
Shared By: Daniel Cohn on Dec 10, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Relative low angle (not slabby) and very thin holds on a long and fairly sustained route. Great protection and quality rock make this a route to do.

Location

long face to the right of Send Me, the obvious bolted .12a roof

Protection

quickdraws

Photos

Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.11
This is a great climb with several difficult, thoughtful crux sections. It's (at least) 11b for sure, whether due to hold breakage or otherwise. Felt significantly harder than any of the standard 11a's on the mountain. It is possible to follow the bolt line straight up at the grade - it seems improbable but it ends up being easier and less stressful than traversing right. Nov 5, 2017
Jpower  
So went climbing last weekend trying to get the redpoint here and pulled off a softball size hold between bolt 3 and 4. It was a pretty substantial hold and might have made the moves between these bolts a little bit harder... you can see the lighter rock where it came off. But someone might want to climb it and see how much the grade will change if any! Nov 4, 2013
Simon H
Oakland, CA
  5.11-
Simon H   Oakland, CA
  5.11-
Great route! Continuous and thoughtful with cool, positive holds, and one great hands free rest. This place has very solid grades! Jan 29, 2013
Ben Venter
Lander, WY
  5.11a/b
Ben Venter   Lander, WY
  5.11a/b
Really fun. One of my favorites in the canyon. Mar 29, 2011
Chelsea Cook
  5.11a
Chelsea Cook  
  5.11a
Thanks Geir, thanks Christian!
Susan, the last day that I was out there was that day there were 50mph gusts- which was not fun. I haven't been out there since then, but my experience with Milagrosa this time of year has been that the Main Wall stays nice since it's shaded most of the day. I hope you had fun higher on the mountain! Apr 25, 2009
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
congrats chelsea!! Apr 22, 2009
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Hey Chelsea, were you down there this past weekend? Too hot or just right in the shade? We debated about going there but ultimately headed up the mountain a bit. On the way back down we were still left to wonder what the conditions actually were?

BTW, that is a nice route and always worth a ride!

~Susan Apr 20, 2009
Chelsea Cook
  5.11a
Chelsea Cook  
  5.11a
When I informed a friend that Stealin' was my favorite climb on the mountain he thought I was crazy and recommended this climb. I am sooo glad he did because it is now my favorite climb to date! If you like crimpy, technical moves, this is the route for you! Apr 14, 2009
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.11b
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.11b
The first bolt short have been 1 foot down and 1 foot right, the second should have been 3 foot right and a few inches down, but I didn't lead it so don't take my word for it. This is one crimpy son-uva-gun! Climb it when its cold, so you can't feel the pain!

(Edit: I have been informed that there is a nice sequence straight up the first two bolts, but it escapes me. I really enjoyed the sequence to the right though.) Dec 16, 2007
Braxtron
...
  5.11
Braxtron   ...
  5.11
Did this climb today, thought it was stellar. Felt like solid .11 to me. Stay close to the bolts toward the end so you can do the sweet finish sequence. Apr 23, 2007
Jimbo  
No question about your comparison jbak.
The question is, is it a 3 star route for La Milagrosa. That is, is it better than all the other routes in the canyon. If it is only a two star route then any other route that is not as good as Fourplay in Milagrosa is only a one star route. And any route that is not as good as the, now, one star routes, are no star routes. I don't think there are any no star routes in Milagrosa.
Maybe we should go to an a,b,c,d, add on to the star system. That way Fourplay could be a **/c while Community Service would be a **/a. Feb 3, 2007
Jimbo  
I didn't know we had four star routes in Tucson. I thought that was more of a J-Tree "five star" kinda thing.

jbak is right this is a 2 star route on the same par with the other routes along the wall. Feb 1, 2007
Jimbo  
The route to the immediate right of the .12 roof is also a newer route. It does start on an arete the attempts to lead you away from the crack through a small roof. Somewhat contrived but it's only 5.10 not 5.11.
Fourplay is 20 feet farther right around the next corner.
I agree with jbak, Fourplay is a great route. Dec 26, 2006
Daniel Cohn  
 
I think Fourplay is the next route to the right of the one you are thinking of. It doesn't start on the arete. Dec 12, 2006
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
Is this the route that starts on the arete to the right of the 5.12 roof then goes right, onto the face? Dec 11, 2006