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Routes in Main Wall

Bad Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Common Wealth S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Community Service S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ecstatic Electricity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
For the People S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Been Robbed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Lonely Eagle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Litheon Flux S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lugee Head S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Headwound Harry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Send It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Vacation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Sheets To The Wind S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Header S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Play T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Four Play) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Right of Triple Play) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Mixed Route T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valentine Arete S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Valentine Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Milagrosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wizard, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Arqueso, Ron Farrell (1990)
Page Views: 1,961 total, 15/month
Shared By: Daniel Cohn on Dec 10, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


52 Opinions

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Description

I thought this route was called Stealin' but it is actually I've Been Robbed. See comments.

It is a short climb that packs a lot in. I like starting in the crack and ignoring all of the big holds to the left. It makes the climb more challenging and forces you to make some stylish moves. The crux near the top of the route involves pulling on pretty small holds.

Location

second bolted route to the left of Valentine's Day Arete, second to last route on main wall

Protection

quickdraws
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11b/c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11b/c
1.5 stars..bullshit! (I've been robbed is right).. I'm being oppressed by the masses, I demand an immediate end to any kind of democracy on this website. ( hehe my rating bumped it up to 2 stars, I'll call off the Stormtroopers) Mar 19, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b/c
it's mostly 5.10 climbing with one pretty stiff move, but i thought that move was really, really cool! it's not often that i give a one-move wonder 3 stars. Dec 24, 2008
Tommy Wilson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Tommy Wilson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Tough crux crimp move comparable to (if not harder than) the low crux on Ecstatic Electricity. If you don't move out left to the mercy holds 5.11c/d. Fun route. Feb 14, 2008
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
5 bolts to chain anchor. Last few moves pretty steep and difficult giving it the 11b rating. Stiffer than Stealin directly to the right. Feb 6, 2007
jbak
  5.11
jbak  
  5.11
The climb you describe is named "I Been Robbed" by Mike Arqueso done around '92. The name was uttered by someone who missed the on-sight. Mike originally intended that people would climb straight over the bolts but drifting left is just too tempting.

Stealin' is the 10d/lla between I Been Robbed and V Arete.

The left-most route was originally done with no bolts by Scott Ayers....free solo I believe. He was surprised that it had been drilled. Dec 11, 2006
Jimbo  
The route to the left of Stealin is relatively new. One used to climb left onto this new route and then head back right to finish Stealin. Which kept the grade closer to .11a/b. It's now much harder, as people go straight up avoiding climbing onto the newer route.
By the way, who ever bolted this newer route I'm referring to, should move the 2nd bolt down. Right now you've got to do the crux before you get it clipped and it's a ground fall. The clipping hold is also very small.

It's a sport route, keep people off the ground!!

Give me the world and I'll re-drill it where it should be. Dec 11, 2006