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Routes in Main Wall

Bad Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Common Wealth S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Community Service S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ecstatic Electricity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
For the People S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Been Robbed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Lonely Eagle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Litheon Flux S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lugee Head S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Headwound Harry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Send It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Vacation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Sheets To The Wind S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Header S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Play T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Four Play) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Right of Triple Play) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Mixed Route T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valentine Arete S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Valentine Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Milagrosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wizard, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: Mike Argueso, Scott Ayers
Page Views: 4,067 total, 30/month
Shared By: Daniel Cohn on Dec 10, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Clean rock, moderately pumpy, great warm-up. It was my friend's first .10a lead so it also good for new 10 leaders.

Location

It is the fourth bolted route on the main wall as you enter the canyon. It is just to left of a large crack and to the right of a corner with some difficult sport climbs.

Protection

quickdraws
The two nuts I placed below the first bolt for psychological safety hung tight. My lead stopped at the ledge; can't speak past that. Try it! Looks beautiful for gear. Peace - Lisa L. Jan 10, 2016
Thanks Jaspur. They don't always last at this canyon as a lot of new climbers don't understand they need to use their own draws when top-roping or that they are not booty. We all appreciate your contribution whatever happens.
Apr 4, 2015
jaspur Chafer
tucson,az
  5.10a
jaspur Chafer   tucson,az
  5.10a
Left some old oval biners at the top for lowering. Apr 3, 2015
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.10b
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.10b
That's bizarre, I deleted whatever You Tube video I had posted with a now non-functioning link. Next thing I know, my name plus the date I had posted that video (in response to "climber", can't remember what it was, but it wasn't in support of what he said) then showed up in the middle of Eric's next post under the quote from "climber".

Lol, I didn't even start climbing or move to Tucson until 2002, not a clue as to what was going on around here in 1987. Oct 28, 2013
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
"Eric Rhicard" wrote:Another example of Do As I Say and I will do anything I want!
hahahaha!!!!! Mar 18, 2010
JMo
Tucson, AZ
JMo   Tucson, AZ
This route is made to order for the 10a leader IMHO, it is aptly named, beautiful canyon, beautiful rock, beautiful line. Mar 18, 2010
Regarding the lower half of “Community Service” in Milagrosa Canyon in Tucson:
In 1987, Dave Des Champs led the lower crack to the ledge, then traversed right to fistcrack to top.
This is a perfectly good crack that is easily and safely led by placing 1 or 2 cams. Despite previous ascents, in the early 1990’s Ayers pretended that nobody else had ever climbed the lower crack (although it had dozens of ascents by then). Unable to climb the crack without drilling it down to his level, Ayers vandalized the crack with unneeded bolts. Dave asked him to remove the bolts which Ayers refused to do. Years later Ayers cratered on the route and sustained lower extremity injuries
Christian
Jan 24, 2010


Another example of Do As I Say and I will do anything I want! Mar 5, 2010
Did a variation Jimbo recommended yesterday. Climb Community Service to the ledge with a long draw at the bolt before the ledge. Traverse left then another long draw so you can finish on the upper part of Ecstatic Electricity. Pretty fun and a letter or two harder. Mar 5, 2010
climber  
Regarding the lower half of “Community Service” in Milagrosa Canyon in Tucson:
In 1987, Dave Des Champs led the lower crack to the ledge, then traversed right to fistcrack to top.
This is a perfectly good crack that is easily and safely led by placing 1 or 2 cams. Despite previous ascents, in the early 1990’s Crater Ayers pretended that nobody else had ever climbed the lower crack (although it had dozens of ascents by then). Unable to climb the crack without drilling it down to his level, Ayers vandalized the crack with unneeded bolts. Dave asked him to remove the bolts which Crater Ayers refused to do. Years later Crater Ayers cratered on the route and sustained lower extremity injuries Jan 24, 2010
Now I really pity the fool that adds an R to Mr. T's name. Good couple of days Mr. T. Apr 3, 2008
Ironically, it was Jimbo himself belaying me as I climbed this route yesterday and clipped the bolts. I can see why it gets done a lot more with bolts: the crack is thin, shallow, slippery, and just loose enough that climbing this thing on gear would be quite exciting. I didn't even bother to bring the rack down to Tucson!

Thanks again to Jim and Eric for being great hosts and guides.

I still pity the fool who climbs on Mr T's Chosspile, though. :) Apr 3, 2008
Lighten up Jimbo. Tavis (no r in there) was just asking the same question you USED to ask all the time. Oh how the times have changed. Jul 26, 2007
Was I bitching, Jimbo? I thought I was only asking a question. Which you answered: convenience is what is up with the bolted crack. And my name is Tavis, not Travis. Jul 26, 2007
Jimbo  
The pro is adequate, and it has been led on gear.
Travis have you climbed this route?, because bitching about a "bolted crack" having not climbed it on gear is bogus.
It was decided by the person who drilled most of the routes in La Milagrosa the he was doing a "Community Service" by bolting this route as a warm up. In his defense it is the most climbed route in the canyon, as every one warms up on it.
Also very few people even bring gear to La Milagrosa. There are, however many fine gear routes to do there that aren't bolted, and they all have chains at the top for the easy lower off thanks to area developer. Mar 9, 2007
Whats up with the bolted crack? Looks like it would take pro pretty well.. Mar 8, 2007