Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: EFR,Doug Cornick, Chelsea Cook,Geir Hundal,'09
Page Views: 1,127 total · 9/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 16, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


14 Opinions

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Description

This route has a cool crux move and the bolt will keep you well off the ledge. The second ledge doesn't come into play as the lack of holds forces you on to the overhanging face. Great stances before each of the 3 hard sections mean you don't have to be an enduro king. I say stances but really it is the ground where you start and the two ledges you can completely recover on.

Location

Starts just left of the fat crack that is left of the Fish. It is about 10 feet right and just around the corner from Welcome to Milagrosa

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Geir www.ToofastTopos.com
Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Geir www.ToofastTopos.com   Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
This climb is marvelous! Can't believe it went unnoticed for so long. :) Apr 16, 2009
Jimbo
  5.11c
Jimbo  
  5.11c
A devious crimpy crux ruined my onsight. Oh the humanity!!

While the top 15 feet seems contrived when you first arrive at the stance, when you do the moves you discover they are the best moves in the canyon.

Reach is a plus on this one.

I'd have bolted the bottom differently but this is what happens when Rhicard takes out his Bosche without me.

Solid two stars, Geir's right, how did this line get overlooked. Apr 3, 2012
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
It's not unsafe, but you'd probably want your belayer on their toes for the crux moves. On the second ledge up high, it's easy to forget the bolt is even there, don't forget to peek around the corner and clip it. Feb 15, 2014