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Routes in Main Wall

Bad Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Common Wealth S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Community Service S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ecstatic Electricity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
For the People S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Been Robbed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Lonely Eagle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Litheon Flux S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lugee Head S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Headwound Harry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Send It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Vacation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Sheets To The Wind S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Header S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Play T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Four Play) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Right of Triple Play) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Mixed Route T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valentine Arete S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Valentine Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Milagrosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wizard, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: EFR,Doug Cornick, Chelsea Cook,Geir Hundal,'09
Page Views: 1,016 total, 10/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 16, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

This route has a cool crux move and the bolt will keep you well off the ledge. The second ledge doesn't come into play as the lack of holds forces you on to the overhanging face. Great stances before each of the 3 hard sections mean you don't have to be an enduro king. I say stances but really it is the ground where you start and the two ledges you can completely recover on.

Location

Starts just left of the fat crack that is left of the Fish. It is about 10 feet right and just around the corner from Welcome to Milagrosa

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
It's not unsafe, but you'd probably want your belayer on their toes for the crux moves. On the second ledge up high, it's easy to forget the bolt is even there, don't forget to peek around the corner and clip it. Feb 15, 2014
Jimbo
  5.11c
Jimbo  
  5.11c
A devious crimpy crux ruined my onsight. Oh the humanity!!

While the top 15 feet seems contrived when you first arrive at the stance, when you do the moves you discover they are the best moves in the canyon.

Reach is a plus on this one.

I'd have bolted the bottom differently but this is what happens when Rhicard takes out his Bosche without me.

Solid two stars, Geir's right, how did this line get overlooked. Apr 3, 2012
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11+
This climb is marvelous! Can't believe it went unnoticed for so long. :) Apr 16, 2009