Type: Sport
FA: Mike Argueso (1989)
Page Views: 2,581 total · 18/month
Shared By: susan peplow on Feb 5, 2007 with updates from Jon Ruland
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


87 Opinions

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Description

Climb obvious bolt line using sidepulls and good edges up steep wall and over roof. Roof is protected by two bolts.

Location

First route to the left of Valentine's Day Arete

Protection

5 bolts plus anchor
Braxtron
...
  5.11-
Braxtron   ...
  5.11-
Pumpy to the "room." Don't forget to clip the bolt above the "room" before departing it for the chains... Feb 6, 2007
joshf
missoula, mt
  5.10c/d
joshf   missoula, mt
  5.10c/d
fun route...if only the roof stayed in the grade. Oct 25, 2007
Gerry Cook
Tucson, Arizona
  5.11a
Gerry Cook   Tucson, Arizona
  5.11a
Here is a YouTube video of a local climber leading this route Stealin Oct 23, 2008
Dave K
Flagstaff, AZ
Dave K   Flagstaff, AZ
I love this route, and can't wait to do it again, but I find it hard to beleve that it's really 5.11a. After leading Community Service, a 10a, I feel like Stealin is more like a 10b... I mean, I'm stoked that I led it and all, but I'm not about to call myself an 11 leader. Stealin remains my hardest lead, and I'm stoked about having done it, but it feels easier than 11a to me.

That is all.

Kahler Feb 13, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11a
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11a
Damn you, people are always trying to downrate the handful of 11a climbs I've done :-)

Are the following also not 11a?

Steve's Arete - Hunchback Pinnacles
You Call It - The Ruins
Thunderbolts - Sky Valley
Mandatory Doug Testing - Murray Wall, Ravens
Myopic - Sun Spot Crags

Not that I'll listen to any of you, I can remain in denial forever... forever I tell ya! Feb 13, 2009
Jimbo  
Not sure how anyone can think Stealin is only one letter grade harder than Community service??
Stealin always felt .11a to me.
Christian, all the other routes you listed are consensus .11a. So sleep well and don't dwell too much on numbers. Feb 15, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11a
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11a
Cool, now I can finally get some sleep hehe Feb 15, 2009
Chelsea Cook
  5.10c/d
Chelsea Cook  
  5.10c/d
I agree that those other routes (the ones I've been on) are 11a, but Stealin' is definitely easier than 11a and you know that because if I can lead it, it must be easier! haha. But seriously, what i've noticed is that people who are better at that style of climbing think it's way easier, and people who excel at other styles of climbing find it more challenging. I could be wrong about this, but it's my theory based on what people tell me about what they think of it. It's a great climb, though, and by far one of my favorites on the mountain- just wish it was longer! Feb 23, 2009
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11a
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11a
Maybe without all the chalk marks it would be 11a? Who knows?

Anyway, if you can lead "Stealin" you can definitely lead the one directly left of it, which is undoubtedly a stellar (though also short) climb. Still stuck hangdogging that one myself. Mar 18, 2009
Chelsea Cook
  5.10c/d
Chelsea Cook  
  5.10c/d
The one to the left is I've Been Robbed and I think it is significantly harder than Stealin! Good luck with it! I love that climb. I still need to get that one. Apr 8, 2009
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.10c/d
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.10c/d
It may be my reach but Stealin feels like 10c to me. Totally fun 10c but still 10c...or d. Sep 20, 2011
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
Dam, who invited Team Downgrade to the party? Luckily it looks like we all agree its worth doing whether you call it a 10 or an 11. Give it a go and see for yourself! Jan 9, 2014
Charles Vernon
mind & body in Colorado, he…
  5.10+
Charles Vernon   mind & body in Colorado, he…
  5.10+
I did. I think it's 10+ if you move a fair bit right by the 3rd bolt (on obvious chalked holds), which is what I have always done. I also think the unknown route 2 routes left (rated 5.10) is harder than Stealin. Jan 9, 2014
J Mo
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
J Mo   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
its a number grade harder than community service. period. Oct 12, 2014
Austin Sobotka
Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Austin Sobotka   Tucson, AZ
  5.11a
Fun route to do after Valentine. I got on it without knowing the grade, and when I was finished assumed it was 10+/11-. Granted, if you move far enough to the right so as to stem on the face of valentine, it's probably a bit easier (so don't stem?). Oh, and the roof is way easier than it looks from the ground, so don't let it scare you. Apr 8, 2015