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Routes in Main Wall

Bad Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Common Wealth S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Community Service S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Did You See That? T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ecstatic Electricity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
For the People S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Play S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Been Robbed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Lonely Eagle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Litheon Flux S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lugee Head S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Headwound Harry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Send It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Vacation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Sheets To The Wind S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Header S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Play T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Four Play) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Right of Triple Play) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Mixed Route T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valentine Arete S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Valentine Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Milagrosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wizard, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Argueso & Lusk 1989
Page Views: 71 total · 9/month
Shared By: Charles Vernon on Mar 8, 2018
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


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Description

In John Hinrichson's on-line guide he says that a "thin crack (5.8) with good gear leads to a ledge; walk left to larger crack (5.10) that takes good but slightly tricky pro. A variation is to follow the finger crack (5.10) to the anchors of Welcome to Milagrosa." After reaching the ledge the finger crack appeared to be the better choice as the big crack/chimney looks pretty chossy. Indeed, while climbing the finger crack I found myself stemming over to the big crack on a few occasions and on one of those occasions the rock on the side of the big crack broke, sending me for a ride on a green C3 which thankfully held. Next time I'll forgo the stem rests, tempting as they are, and just climb up the finger crack which is pretty fun with a bulging crux move near the top. The finger crack is a little chossy but good gear and solid locks can be found.

As is typical of Milagrosa gear routes, this won't be mistaken for a classic but is worth doing if you brought your rack.

Location

Starts a few feet left of Welcome to Milagrosa in an obvious, and by Milagrosa standards, attractive-looking crack.

Protection

Light standard rack to a #2 camalot for the finger crack variation (which, as I say, appears to be the better option off the ledge). I can't comment on the larger crack except to say that it may be chossy. A red C3 protects the finger crack crux but there are other options as well. If doing the finger crack variation you can clip the chains on Welcome to Milagrosa. If doing the left-hand, larger crack, John's guide suggests that there are chains at the top, but I didn't notice any from below.

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