Send It

I pulled a huge block off this route last week. Setting up for the crux on the second bulge, there was a left hand jug on the arete. This whole thing came off, making the crux a touch harder. There be a hold hiding behind all the dirt where the block was, but I didn't have a brush to excavate. Jan 17, 2011

Not to fail at "Guideline #1: don't be a jerk"... but this may be one of the overall lousiest climbs I've ever done. Even worse than the Fish. If you're looking for some sort of one-move-wonder in order to tick off a 5.12a/b/c?? and you like dynos to a huge jug after 45 ft of contrived techy climbing where you can consistently cheat out left of the arrette onto the juggy 5.8 face, then this is a great climb for you... otherwise, I don't know that I would bother.

The best thing about getting it is that 1) I don't ever have to send it again, and 2), I really only went out to watch someone else send Fourplay, which they successfully accomplished! Dec 10, 2012

Avoiding the arete to hold the grade is contrived. I followed the path of least resistance and clipped all the bolts; to do otherwise seems silly. The route was enjoyable enough when climbed in this manner. To each their own. Dec 27, 2013

I am going to disagree with Dave here and say that I really enjoyed this climb. It's been a couple years but I remember fun, technical climbing up the arete and face followed by cool dynamic sequences through the two roofs and a juggy slab to the chains. I did the right variation (staying completely on the steep overhang through both roofs and the top bulge). I remember seeing this listed somewhere as 12c, maybe the Sport Select guide? Regardless, I thought the climb was fun and a nice change of pace from the vertical to off-vert climbing that characterizes much of the Main Wall at Milagrosa. Feb 11, 2014

Move the bolts and climb this thing via the arete and you have yourself a good climb. Now it is dumb. Jan 24, 2015