Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,281 total · 11/month
Shared By: Sasquach Broom on Feb 21, 2009
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

11 Opinions

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Send it goes up the face to the obvious roof to the right of Valentine Arete.


7 bolts + chains


Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
I pulled a huge block off this route last week. Setting up for the crux on the second bulge, there was a left hand jug on the arete. This whole thing came off, making the crux a touch harder. There be a hold hiding behind all the dirt where the block was, but I didn't have a brush to excavate. Jan 17, 2011
Tucson, AZ
dah3586   Tucson, AZ
Not to fail at "Guideline #1: don't be a jerk"... but this may be one of the overall lousiest climbs I've ever done. Even worse than the Fish. If you're looking for some sort of one-move-wonder in order to tick off a 5.12a/b/c?? and you like dynos to a huge jug after 45 ft of contrived techy climbing where you can consistently cheat out left of the arrette onto the juggy 5.8 face, then this is a great climb for you... otherwise, I don't know that I would bother.

The best thing about getting it is that 1) I don't ever have to send it again, and 2), I really only went out to watch someone else send Fourplay, which they successfully accomplished! Dec 10, 2012
Littleton, CO
Hendrixson   Littleton, CO
Avoiding the arete to hold the grade is contrived. I followed the path of least resistance and clipped all the bolts; to do otherwise seems silly. The route was enjoyable enough when climbed in this manner. To each their own. Dec 27, 2013
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
I am going to disagree with Dave here and say that I really enjoyed this climb. It's been a couple years but I remember fun, technical climbing up the arete and face followed by cool dynamic sequences through the two roofs and a juggy slab to the chains. I did the right variation (staying completely on the steep overhang through both roofs and the top bulge). I remember seeing this listed somewhere as 12c, maybe the Sport Select guide? Regardless, I thought the climb was fun and a nice change of pace from the vertical to off-vert climbing that characterizes much of the Main Wall at Milagrosa. Feb 11, 2014
Alex Whitman
Alex Whitman  
Move the bolts and climb this thing via the arete and you have yourself a good climb. Now it is dumb. Jan 24, 2015