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Routes in Main Wall

Bad Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Common Wealth S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Community Service S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ecstatic Electricity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
For the People S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Play S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Been Robbed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Lonely Eagle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Litheon Flux S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lugee Head S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Headwound Harry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Send It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Vacation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Sheets To The Wind S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Header S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Play T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Four Play) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Right of Triple Play) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Mixed Route T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valentine Arete S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Valentine Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Milagrosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wizard, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,220 total, 11/month
Shared By: Sasquach Broom on Feb 21, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Send it goes up the face to the obvious roof to the right of Valentine Arete.

Protection

7 bolts + chains

Photos

Alex Whitman
  5.11b
Alex Whitman  
  5.11b
Move the bolts and climb this thing via the arete and you have yourself a good climb. Now it is dumb. Jan 24, 2015
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
I am going to disagree with Dave here and say that I really enjoyed this climb. It's been a couple years but I remember fun, technical climbing up the arete and face followed by cool dynamic sequences through the two roofs and a juggy slab to the chains. I did the right variation (staying completely on the steep overhang through both roofs and the top bulge). I remember seeing this listed somewhere as 12c, maybe the Sport Select guide? Regardless, I thought the climb was fun and a nice change of pace from the vertical to off-vert climbing that characterizes much of the Main Wall at Milagrosa. Feb 11, 2014
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11b
Avoiding the arete to hold the grade is contrived. I followed the path of least resistance and clipped all the bolts; to do otherwise seems silly. The route was enjoyable enough when climbed in this manner. To each their own. Dec 27, 2013
dah3586
Tucson, AZ
  5.12b
dah3586   Tucson, AZ
  5.12b
Not to fail at "Guideline #1: don't be a jerk"... but this may be one of the overall lousiest climbs I've ever done. Even worse than the Fish. If you're looking for some sort of one-move-wonder in order to tick off a 5.12a/b/c?? and you like dynos to a huge jug after 45 ft of contrived techy climbing where you can consistently cheat out left of the arrette onto the juggy 5.8 face, then this is a great climb for you... otherwise, I don't know that I would bother.

The best thing about getting it is that 1) I don't ever have to send it again, and 2), I really only went out to watch someone else send Fourplay, which they successfully accomplished! Dec 10, 2012
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
 
I pulled a huge block off this route last week. Setting up for the crux on the second bulge, there was a left hand jug on the arete. This whole thing came off, making the crux a touch harder. There be a hold hiding behind all the dirt where the block was, but I didn't have a brush to excavate. Jan 17, 2011