Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,833 total · 26/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Dec 18, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

119 Opinions

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The beginning is a bit stout for a 5.8. Good warm-up.


At the far left end of the Main Wall, this is the route on the left side of the obvious arete, starting in the dirt clearing. Goes up the face left of the arete and right of the dihedral.


Bolts & chains.


Here's a fun variation to Valentines. Start up the arete of the 5.12 roof route then bust left when you reach the roof and finish on Valentines. Makes for fun 5.10 route. I call it the Valentines Day Manicure. Dec 26, 2006
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
This is truly a classic line. The rock is interesting with it's stripped nature and lots of edges. Using the sharp arete at the start with a few key moves low down. To me, it doesn't matter how hard you're climbing this route is fun, enjoyable and always worth a ride.

6 bolts - chain anchor Feb 6, 2007
Rather polished from traffic, but this is one of the first routes I ever finished instead of snivelling to be lowered from :) Mar 21, 2007
missoula, mt
joshf   missoula, mt
This route is a one move wonder and the rock gets less good as you go higher up. Just to the right of the chains i ripped off three brick sized rocks. Note also, the crack to the left shares the same problem, the cracks look good but the rock is fractured and soft. I've sent rocks off of this route twice, most of the pro is placed in pack rat shit and its not really worth bringing the cams. Oct 26, 2007
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
The lower section is super stiff for 5.8, maybe especially for shorter people. I was shredded at the time, so its a little hard to rate it with my first experience. Probably a sandbag at 5.8, maybe 9-. Most likely no harder than a typical Lemmon 5.9, though I think those are sandbagged many times. Fun route though, well worth it! Jan 10, 2008
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Definitely not 5.8. More like 5.9. May 1, 2009
I agree this is stiff for 5.8, at least at the bottom, and would go 5.9. The route is clean and fun--didn't find any loose stuff on the route at all. Mar 14, 2010
Ben Venter
Tucson, AZ
Ben Venter   Tucson, AZ
Fun moves. A 5.8 leader might get worked by the opening moves, it's quite a sandbag at 5.8. Mar 29, 2011
John Hayes
Bend, OR
John Hayes   Bend, OR
One of my solid 5.11 buddies would never fall off this one, but he might struggle and complain about it every time he gets on it. ;-)) I won't mention any names but I will agree that this sure ain't 5.8. If you do it right, it's easy 5.9. If you really try, you can turn it into 10+. Take your pick. Sep 20, 2011
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
I do this route every time I go to Milagrosa, and every time I'm surprised at how tricky and enjoyable it is. The first 3 bolts are definitely 5.9, after that it eases up quite a bit. Dec 4, 2016