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Routes in Main Wall

Bad Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Common Wealth S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Community Service S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ecstatic Electricity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
For the People S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Play S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Been Robbed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Lonely Eagle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Litheon Flux S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Lugee Head S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Headwound Harry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Send It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Vacation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Sheets To The Wind S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Triple Header S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Play T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Four Play) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Right of Triple Play) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Mixed Route T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valentine Arete S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Valentine Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Milagrosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wizard, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport
FA: unknown
Page Views: 3,486 total, 26/month
Shared By: Scott Tucker on Dec 18, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

The beginning is a bit stout for a 5.8. Good warm-up.

Location

At the far left end of the Main Wall, this is the route on the left side of the obvious arete, starting in the dirt clearing. Goes up the face left of the arete and right of the dihedral.

Protection

Bolts & chains.

Photos

Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
I do this route every time I go to Milagrosa, and every time I'm surprised at how tricky and enjoyable it is. The first 3 bolts are definitely 5.9, after that it eases up quite a bit. Dec 4, 2016
John Hayes
Bend, OR
  5.9-
John Hayes   Bend, OR
  5.9-
One of my solid 5.11 buddies would never fall off this one, but he might struggle and complain about it every time he gets on it. ;-)) I won't mention any names but I will agree that this sure ain't 5.8. If you do it right, it's easy 5.9. If you really try, you can turn it into 10+. Take your pick. Sep 20, 2011
Ben Venter
Lander, WY
  5.9
Ben Venter   Lander, WY
  5.9
Fun moves. A 5.8 leader might get worked by the opening moves, it's quite a sandbag at 5.8. Mar 29, 2011
JayCap
  5.9
JayCap  
  5.9
I agree this is stiff for 5.8, at least at the bottom, and would go 5.9. The route is clean and fun--didn't find any loose stuff on the route at all. Mar 14, 2010
Definitely not 5.8. More like 5.9. May 1, 2009
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
  5.9
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
  5.9
The lower section is super stiff for 5.8, maybe especially for shorter people. I was shredded at the time, so its a little hard to rate it with my first experience. Probably a sandbag at 5.8, maybe 9-. Most likely no harder than a typical Lemmon 5.9, though I think those are sandbagged many times. Fun route though, well worth it! Jan 10, 2008
joshf
missoula, mt
  5.8+
joshf   missoula, mt
  5.8+
This route is a one move wonder and the rock gets less good as you go higher up. Just to the right of the chains i ripped off three brick sized rocks. Note also, the crack to the left shares the same problem, the cracks look good but the rock is fractured and soft. I've sent rocks off of this route twice, most of the pro is placed in pack rat shit and its not really worth bringing the cams. Oct 26, 2007
Rather polished from traffic, but this is one of the first routes I ever finished instead of snivelling to be lowered from :) Mar 21, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8
This is truly a classic line. The rock is interesting with it's stripped nature and lots of edges. Using the sharp arete at the start with a few key moves low down. To me, it doesn't matter how hard you're climbing this route is fun, enjoyable and always worth a ride.

6 bolts - chain anchor Feb 6, 2007
Jimbo  
Here's a fun variation to Valentines. Start up the arete of the 5.12 roof route then bust left when you reach the roof and finish on Valentines. Makes for fun 5.10 route. I call it the Valentines Day Manicure. Dec 26, 2006