Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Mike Argueso (1989)
Page Views: 1,279 total · 9/month
Shared By: Adam on Dec 27, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


29 Opinions

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Description

Steep face moves get you to a huge ledge and then 12 more feet get you to the chains.

Location

Center of the main wall. Left side of the big wall that comes closest to the trail. This route and Where the Buffalo Roam are the only climbs on this section of face.

Protection

bolt/chains

Photos

Braxtron
...
  5.10+
Braxtron   ...
  5.10+
Using the arete just below the big ledge bypasses what I think is the crux, downgrading this climb to 10b. Feb 5, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.10c
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.10c
Somewhat difficult crux section leaving the horizontal crack prior to gaining the large ledge - don't stop at the ledge the route goes another 3 bolts to the anchor.

9 bolts plus anchor Feb 6, 2007
Joseph Stover
Batesville, AR
Joseph Stover   Batesville, AR
The crux is definitely the crimps between the big horizontal crack and the ledge. I would believe 10b with the arete and 10d with the crimps. It's also really fun moves above the ledge! Dec 16, 2007
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.10b
to not use the arete is silly. you can reach it without ever leaving the bolt line. Apr 7, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Have to agree with Luke on this one. A number of routes here are like that. The top of Fourplay is another one. The 5.10 to the left of Fourplay, the 12 to the left of that just to name a few. Doesn't really matter. If you find yourself asking if something is off route then the line is probably a little contrived. Doesn't really matter but it may change the grade a little as it does on this climb and the others I mentioned. Apr 16, 2009
Whether the Arete is on or not, people use it based on the chalk marks over there... I cleaned a huge (200 lbs) block off of it right where it joins the ledge that was clunking when I stepped on it. Crashed right down where the belayer would have been. There may still be some loose stuff there that will come out after the next rain. Dec 15, 2013
Jimbo  
Keep up the good work Eric!! Dec 18, 2013
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.10b
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.10b
Heads up y'all. One of the handholds before the main ledge on this climb came off this week. It doesn't seem needed as it is where the climb veers left toward the arete, but its worth a mention.

Also, there is a pile of rubble/ choss on the ledge that should probably go. All of the blocks are of a good size and it'd be a shame if it came down on a belayer or climber hiking the main wall approach trail. Probably best to remove it when there is less traffic at the crag. Feb 21, 2014