Elevation: 2,500 ft
GPS: 32.3, -110.71 Google Map · Climbing Area Map
Page Views: 100,445 total · 486/month
Shared By: James DeRoussel on Mar 10, 2003
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

Description

Milagrosa Canyon, located at the foot of the Santa Catalina Mountains is fast becoming a popular winter sport climbing crag among locals. When it's cold up on Mt Lemmon, this place offers hard pulling in comfy temps. Climbs on both sides of the canyon might also offer a choice of sun or shade.

Occasionally referred to as "5.11 Heaven", Milagrosa is characterized by steep, hard sport routes is a nice desert canyon setting. A lack of easy routes means this place will quickly bore some beginner's, but for the moderate to hard leader, it's a goldmine.

Rock quality in this canyon is highly varied. Where it is good, it is very good. And where it is bad, don't even bother. Most routes are equipped with two bolt anchors and chains at top. As always, inspect these anchors before trusting your life to them.

Route development here is ongoing, though the most comprehensive guide is probably the recently published Tucson Select Sport Climbing guide.

Getting There

From town, head north on the Catalina Highway as if going up Mt Lemmon. Before the base of the mountain, turn right (east) onto Snyder Road. Follow Snyder east to Suzenu Rd. and turn left. Drive to the end of Suzenu, and park off the road near the large gate.

From the gate, hike east down a long, straight dirt road. After about ten minutes of hiking, pass through a chained gate and cross the bed of Molino Creek. Follow the road up a hill until you can see Agua Caliente Creek to the south.

To access Sunnyside, Main Wall, and Saguaro Corners, take the trail that heads down into the creek bed. After crossing Agua Caliente Creek you will hit a trail heading east up Agua Caliente Canyon. Don't follow it too far! If you do, you will be heading up the wrong canyon. After about 100 yards, the trail splits. Take the left fork back to the creek bed and into Milagrosa Canyon.

To access the Oasis, instead of heading down into Agua Caliente Creek, continue on the road which will take you past the turn off for the upper trail (now marked with a Pima County Parks and Rec sign). This upper trail follows the rim of Milagrosa Canyon and finally enters the canyon further upstream.

81 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at La Milagrosa Canyon

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
 50
For the People
Sport
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
 140
Valentine Arete
Sport
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
 147
Community Service
Sport
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
 53
Unnamed Mixed Route
Trad
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
 66
Welcome to Milagrosa
Sport
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
 23
Sahuaro
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 50
Where the Buffalo Roam
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 93
Stealin
Sport
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
 37
Massive Headwound Harry
Sport
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
 71
Four Play
Sport
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
 62
I Been Robbed
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 37
Solar Power
Sport
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 110
The Wizard
Sport
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
 44
Ecstatic Electricity
Sport
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
 19
Milanoma
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
For the People Main Wall
 50
5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c Sport
Valentine Arete Main Wall
 140
5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c Sport
Community Service Main Wall
 147
5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a Sport
Unnamed Mixed Route Main Wall
 53
5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b Trad
Welcome to Milagrosa Main Wall
 66
5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b Sport
Sahuaro Sahuaro Corners
 23
5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b Sport
Where the Buffalo Roam Main Wall
 50
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Stealin Main Wall
 93
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Massive Headwound Harry Main Wall
 37
5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b Sport
Four Play Main Wall
 71
5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c Sport
I Been Robbed Main Wall
 62
5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a Sport
Solar Power Beach
 37
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
The Wizard Main Wall
 110
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Ecstatic Electricity Main Wall
 44
5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Milanoma Beach
 19
5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
More Classic Climbs in La Milagrosa Canyon »

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