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Routes in The Beach

Blood Meridian S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Eclipse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
For The Lova Mike S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hang Eleven S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Holeo An' Glassy Ass S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Milanoma S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No War S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pipeline S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Solar Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: JBaker, Todd McGregor (Apr, 2003)
Page Views: 2,489 total, 17/month
Shared By: jbak on Mar 21, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Very physical route that's burly from bottom to top and has lots of good footwork. Overhangs about 30 degrees. The moves at the bottom of the crack put the "P" in Power layback.

Location

Just right of the cleaver-like arete two routes share a start. NO WAR branches left to the arete, Blood Meridian heads for the left-leaning crack.

Protection

Bolts and chains with biners.

Photos

jbak
  5.12+
jbak  
  5.12+
Byron my buddy... you might wanna ask the FA before adding stuff. It's not like you are adding a bolt, but still. 3 days ago
Byron Hempel
Tucson
Byron Hempel   Tucson
I left a draw at the crux (with a steel rope side!) for easy cleaning and and comfy clip at the rest halfway up! I didn't have a quicklink on me; if anyone gets out there before I do, feel free to swap out the aluminum bolt biner with a quick link. If you do, feel free to keep the bolt biner! 3 days ago
jbak
  5.12+
jbak  
  5.12+
Dear climbing comrade...thank for your words of kindness... may your forearms always be refresh at crux of your bold flashing ! Mar 8, 2017
JSchultz
  5.12+
JSchultz  
  5.12+
Excellent climb having two totally different sections. One overhanging with jugs and crimps, the other power laybacking with the link between being the crux for me. Mar 5, 2017
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12c
John, it's funny you mentioned one route being your style and the other not as much. I guess I feel pretty much the opposite about the two routes in terms of which suits me more. Both are fantastic. We've been hitting this place pretty hard this season. We finally got smart and learned not to even show up until it is in full shade. If you follow that rule the late afternoons/ early evenings are amazing out there. Mar 9, 2015
jbak
  5.12+
jbak  
  5.12+
Interesting comments Luke. If I hadn't cursed this route with a 12+ rating it would probably be more popular. IMO it's as good or better than Milanoma or Solar, but never gets done. And I won't argue with Dan Lucas when he says it's the best route there.

I sent both this route and Milanoma back in the 02-03 winter season when I was in pretty good shape. Milanoma seemed almost easy, Blood felt 1.5 to 2 letter grades harder. TO ME. One played to my strengths (few though they are) and the other exposed my many weaknesses. Mar 6, 2015
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.12c
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.12c
Pretty darn good route. I can't believe I made it out to The Beach probably 20 times before ever getting on this one. IMO this climb is the same difficulty as Milanoma only there is not a single small hold on the entire climb. Mar 6, 2015
Dominic Weinstock  
  5.12+
Damn good route....damn good.....one beautiful high tension move after the other. Dec 21, 2013
jbak
  5.12+
jbak  
  5.12+
And kNad knows. Oct 8, 2010
JoeS  
Although rarely done, this route is very good. Dan Lucas says it's the best route at the beach. May 8, 2010
Aleix  
I knew it, ...you HAD to be a fan of Cormac McCarthy...
Congrats John :-) Feb 26, 2009
jbak
  5.12+
jbak  
  5.12+
A very tough FA for me. I don't know how many tries I put in...but it was alot. My fat fingers just don't work well with the crux holds. I was about to give up on the route when Monica Wang asked me if she could give it a go. She had taken a couple of TR runs, but wanted to lead it. I said "sure...do it". And she came within a whisker of sending. That energized me enough to give it one more go...and I got it. This route seems WAY harder than Milanoma to me.

If you are a fan of Cormac McCarthy, you may get a grin out of the juxtaposition of this route and "No War". Feb 26, 2009