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Routes in The Beach

Blood Meridian S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Eclipse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
For The Lova Mike S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hang Eleven S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Holeo An' Glassy Ass S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Milanoma S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No War S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pipeline S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Solar Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a

Description

This crag has two 5.11's, a few 5.12's and a few 5.13's. It is located above and left of the main Sunnyside wall and is a steep little wall with some impressive overhangs on its left side. It catches lots of morning sun, and can be VERY hot in direct sun, so it's necessary to have a strategy to avoid the heat. You can: Go on a day when the temperature is below 60. Go on a cloudy day. Go later in the afternoon when the sun angle is more favorable. As the sun swings north in the spring, the crag gets good shade about mid-afternoon. So Feb, March and April are good months to make a mid-to-late afternoon visit. In April, most of the routes are in shade by 1 p.m.
The wall is shaped like a breaking wave. It starts at 20 deg. overhung on the right side, and breaks to about 60 deg. overhung on the left. The routes are steep and sustained.

Getting There

Follow the map provided. Take the upper trail then cut right on the spur trail and follow it past the Cheese Block a ways then take the split left up to The Beach.

9 Total Climbs

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Classic Climbing Routes at The Beach

Mountain Project's determination of the classic, most popular, highest rated climbing routes in this area.
5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Solar Power
Sport
5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Milanoma
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Blood Meridian
Sport
5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Eclipse
Sport
5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Holeo An' Glassy Ass
Sport
5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
No War
Sport
Route Name Location Star Rating Difficulty Date
Solar Power 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a Sport
Milanoma 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b Sport
Blood Meridian 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Eclipse 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b Sport
Holeo An' Glassy Ass 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c Sport
No War 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a Sport
More Classic Climbs in The Beach »

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Photos

jbak  
Death of a Surfer. It blows. Jan 20, 2009
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
What is the route that traverses left from near the start of Eclipse? Looks like you have a pretty good chance of ground fall for much of the route. Is it safer than it looks? More fun than it looks? Jan 10, 2009
jbak  
Left-to-right:

Eclipse - 12d - the big roof
Pipeline - 13a - shoots out the right side of the curl.
No War - 13+ - the sharp arete
Blood Meridian - 12+ - up to the seam
Milanoma - 12 - up the blocks
Holeo - 13a - up past the small deep hueco
Solar Power - 12a - starts from the crappy ledge
Hang Eleven - 11c - furthest right on the crappy ledge

Good warmup is Tragically Hip (11a) down below The Beach. Dec 31, 2007
jbak  
Don't bother with the far-left 11d. It is pretty lame. Feb 16, 2006

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