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Routes in The Beach

Blood Meridian S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Eclipse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
For The Lova Mike S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hang Eleven S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Holeo An' Glassy Ass S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Milanoma S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No War S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pipeline S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Solar Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: JBaker, TMcGregor, BKristofitz, JShiefman, Jan. 2002
Page Views: 2,094 total, 15/month
Shared By: jbak on Mar 2, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


25 Opinions

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Description

Near the right side of the wall, a route starts from a ledge 10 feet off the deck and follows a seam up past two blocks. Start by scrambling up crap rock past a bolt to the ledge. If you traverse left near the top to avoid the final crux, you will not feel QUITE as good about your redpoint !

Protection

draws, chain anchors

Photos

jbak
 
jbak  
 
I don't hate it Myk. 2 stars means... good. And it's pretty good, but all the other routes there are BETTER !! (Well... except Hang Eleven) So that diminishes the glow a bit. Dec 13, 2016
Myk BROWN
tucson, az
Myk BROWN   tucson, az
What's with the 2 stars John? Are you trying to be humble or something? This is a super fun route :) (I do like going left at the top though) Dec 12, 2016
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Installed a massive 1/2 x 5.5 SS bolt at the start of the crux. Dec 27, 2014
jbak
 
jbak  
 
You gave it 3 stars so I wouldn't give you shit for cheating...right ?

smilies......... Dec 22, 2009
Really fun route. I went left at the top and it is a little easier than forcing myself on to the holds on either side of the bolt. John you probably should have bakerized it a bit more to the right if you really want us to climb there. I didn't really go that far left as I used the left most holds with my right hand. Dec 22, 2009
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
 
Other than the crappy scramble to the base of the route, I think this route is as good as anything else I've done in the canyon. The movements involved in this route are outstanding. Dec 18, 2008