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Routes in The Beach

Blood Meridian S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Eclipse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
For The Lova Mike S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hang Eleven S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Holeo An' Glassy Ass S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Milanoma S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No War S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pipeline S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Solar Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Todd McGregor, JBaker, April 2002
Page Views: 1,570 total, 13/month
Shared By: jbak on Dec 17, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Steepest route at Milagrosa is a miniature jewel. It's only 30 feet but those 30 feet match up with just about any around. It starts at 5.11 and gets steadily harder until it tickles the underbelly of 5.13. It's about 80 degrees beyond vertical.

Location

Obvious roof, left side of Beach ledge.

Protection

6 bolts and chains + a dog bolt.
wasp's nests are successfully destroyed (11/25/12) Nov 25, 2012
jbak
  5.12+
jbak  
  5.12+
Alex... glad you liked it. Had a hard time figuring out what "a could blows over" meant. Then I got it. Dec 19, 2011
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
Great route! Super fun and that last section is HARD. Timing it so that a cloud blows over as you exit the roof is the way to go or else everything over the lip is really greasy.

One thing, watch out for wasps on the last few big holds in the roof. On the redpoint I grabbed the hold right next to the big blocky jug, moved onto the jug and then watched a wasp crawl out of where my fingers had just been. Dec 19, 2011
jbak
  5.12+
jbak  
  5.12+
Ian, just make sure the nut on the chain-draw is tight if you skip the last clip. Can't remember if I locktited it or not. 2nd-to-last is just a dog bolt like the one on Chaingang. Apr 25, 2010
Clip the chain draw, then skip the next two bolts on redpoint and go for a RIDE when you blow the final easy move to chains!

Very fun, but those jugs are sharp. Apr 25, 2010
jbak
  5.12+
jbak  
  5.12+
Got on this thing again today...what a kick-ass route ! Apr 13, 2008