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All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (S… > La Milagrosa Ca… > The Beach

Holeo An' Glassy Ass

5.13a YDS 7c+ French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 29 ZA E6 6c British


 Avg: 3 from 4 votes

Routes in The Beach

Blood Meridian S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Eclipse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
For The Lova Mike S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hang Eleven S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Holeo An' Glassy Ass S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Milanoma S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No War S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pipeline S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Solar Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Todd McGregor, JBaker (Apr, 2003)
Page Views: 2,816 total · 19/month
Shared By: jbak . on Mar 21, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Starts hard, gets harder.

Location

On the right side of The Beach is a ledge from which Solar Power starts. Holeo is just left of that and goes up to an obvious small hueco (the todd hole) at mid-height.

Protection

Bolts and chains.

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Chasing shade at The Beach
Chasing shade at The Beach
 1
T1 on Holeo.
T1 on Holeo.
 0
Todd McG does Holeo with his eyes closed so he can't see any tick marks.
Todd McG does Holeo with his eyes closed so he…
 0

6 Comments

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jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
My original name for this route was "Toddhole". But Todd just couldn't see it for some reason. Dec 15, 2009
jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
Miles Kunkel came very close to flashing this route. Then he realized that Todd hadn't redpointed it yet, and so he pretended to get pumped and fall right at the top. A very un-convincing acting job. Nov 22, 2012
Jimbo
Jimbo  
EFR did the same thing for me on a route at the Hairpin. Except he pretended to grease off a hold. It wasn't very convincing either, but I took the gift and snagged the FA. Nov 23, 2012
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard  
Never in my life and not that day either. But if you want to tell them I took a dive so you could snag the route, feel free as it makes me look little less self centered. Nov 23, 2012
Todd McGregor
Todd McGregor  
This is a silly name but consider the source. The story goes that I was on my way to pick up JB for a day at the beach when a really bad song by Julio Inglesias came on the radio. It was stuck in my head the entire day. One weird thought led to another...
Miles is my hero. Mar 23, 2013
Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.13a/b
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.13a/b
I had never been on this thing until the other day. I recall staring up on several occasions and feeling a little sick imagining the razor blade holds that might be on this climb. Oddly enough there is really only one sharp hold IMO, and the moves are a blast. Jan 16, 2015

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