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Routes in The Beach

Blood Meridian S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Eclipse S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
For The Lova Mike S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Hang Eleven S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Holeo An' Glassy Ass S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Milanoma S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
No War S 5.13c 8a+ 30 X- 31 E7 7a
Pipeline S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Solar Power S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Todd McGregor, JBaker (Apr, 2003)
Page Views: 2,686 total, 19/month
Shared By: jbak on Mar 21, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Starts hard, gets harder.

Location

On the right side of The Beach is a ledge from which Solar Power starts. Holeo is just left of that and goes up to an obvious small hueco (the todd hole) at mid-height.

Protection

Bolts and chains.

Photos

Luke Bertelsen
Tucson, AZ
  5.13a/b
Luke Bertelsen   Tucson, AZ  
  5.13a/b
I had never been on this thing until the other day. I recall staring up on several occasions and feeling a little sick imagining the razor blade holds that might be on this climb. Oddly enough there is really only one sharp hold IMO, and the moves are a blast. Jan 16, 2015
This is a silly name but consider the source. The story goes that I was on my way to pick up JB for a day at the beach when a really bad song by Julio Inglesias came on the radio. It was stuck in my head the entire day. One weird thought led to another...
Miles is my hero. Mar 23, 2013
Never in my life and not that day either. But if you want to tell them I took a dive so you could snag the route, feel free as it makes me look little less self centered. Nov 23, 2012
Jimbo  
EFR did the same thing for me on a route at the Hairpin. Except he pretended to grease off a hold. It wasn't very convincing either, but I took the gift and snagged the FA. Nov 23, 2012
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Miles Kunkel came very close to flashing this route. Then he realized that Todd hadn't redpointed it yet, and so he pretended to get pumped and fall right at the top. A very un-convincing acting job. Nov 22, 2012
jbak
 
jbak  
 
My original name for this route was "Toddhole". But Todd just couldn't see it for some reason. Dec 15, 2009