Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Mike Argueso, Tony Lusk (early 1990s)
Page Views: 7,707 total · 51/month
Shared By: GDS on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

96 Opinions

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An outstanding route located in the round, amphitheater portion of The Main Wall. Thin ledges down low lead to a shallow dihedral and a large flake located below the anchors. Precise footwork on meager footholds will help alleviate some of the pump at several clip stances. The rock in this area tends to hold chalk even after a rain, so don't be surprised if you feel like the holds have already been "ticked".


The second line of bolts left of the obvious, bolted crack route - Community Service.


Bolts: well protected. Chains for rappel or lower.
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Easily one of the best routes in the canyon. Don't miss it. Oct 11, 2008
A beautiful route with two distinct cruxes: one down low and one up high.

This is the second .12 I've redpointed, the other being Sentenced to Hang, which gets a consensus grade of .12b. Obviously, that's not much by way of perspective (though I've done my fair share of hard .11s), but this feels at least as hard as Sentenced to me if not a little a harder. The two cruxes are harder than the crux on Sentenced (both technically and in terms of strength), it's more sustained, and has a couple of very tough clips. Obviously, the two routes are very different in terms of style, but I'm better at Wizard-esque climbing and I still think it's as hard as Sentenced. So I propose hard .12b (definitely the crux move on Milanoma (.12c) is much harder than any move on the Wizard).

I suppose it doesn't matter much what it's graded, but I think these discussions are interesting and I'm always trying to get a better understanding of how people grade things. Mar 30, 2009
jbak .
jbak .   tucson,az
ian...I will give you the straight poop...Wizard is 12a (max !) but delicate so it may feel harder if you're not used to that kind of thing. Sentenced is 12a/b so not much difference there. Milanoma is probably NOT 12c...more like b/c. These are minor shadings of difficulty for sure, but you said you were interested so there you go. Mar 30, 2009
Ahh, well if Milanoma is not 12c that makes more sense. Mar 31, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
about the grade: after climbing 3 other 12a's and one 12b i think this route is solid 12a and a good gauge to judge other routes of the grade in the tucson area.

i hereby decree that henceforth all routes that aspire unto the grade of 12a in the great land of Tucson shalt be compared beside The Mighty Wizard. all climbs that are slightly easier than The Mighty Wizard shalt be called 11d; all climbs that are slightly harder than The Mighty Wizard shalt be called 12b; and all climbs that are roughly equal in difficulty unto The Mighty Wizard shalt be called 12a. i have spoken. Nov 30, 2009
12a is right. I get it now. I wouldn't use it as the Lemmon standard for the grade, though, because the style is fairly unique.

I'm inclined to think Milanoma is 12c, though. Have to go do Right Tissue and see. Apr 25, 2010
@ Jon Ruland: your comment made my day! Apr 12, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, CO
Andy Hansen   Longmont, CO
Very good and sustained technical climbing! I thought the grade leaned a bit closer to 12b but maybe I'm getting soft living in Colorado... probably. Either way, the sustained nature of the route (save for the last 15 feet) really make this a classic. Jan 20, 2014
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
So good! Great combination of technique and power. If you can work the feet out and milk the two good rests it becomes a very "accessible" 12a. Nov 23, 2014
Alexanderswiderski   Portland
The Wizard demands delicate footwork and it continued to demand my attention once my feet set off the ground. A great route and I am stoked to call it my first 5.12 flash in the Catalinas. Dec 21, 2014