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Routes in Main Wall

Bad Santa S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Common Wealth S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Community Service S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Did You See That? T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Ecstatic Electricity S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Fish, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
For the People S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Four Play S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
I Been Robbed S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Last Lonely Eagle S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Litheon Flux S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Lugee Head S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Massive Headwound Harry S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Send It S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Short Vacation S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stealin S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Three Sheets To The Wind S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Triple Header S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Triple Play T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Left of I Been Robbed) S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unknown (Right of Four Play) T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Unknown (Right of Triple Play) S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Unknown 5.6 T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Unnamed Mixed Route T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Valentine Arete S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Valentine Corner T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Welcome to Milagrosa S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Where the Buffalo Roam S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Wizard, The S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
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Type: Sport, 65 ft
FA: Mike Argueso, Tony Lusk (early 1990s)
Page Views: 7,321 total · 51/month
Shared By: GDS on Jul 17, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


92 Opinions

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Description [Edit]

An outstanding route located in the round, amphitheater portion of The Main Wall. Thin ledges down low lead to a shallow dihedral and a large flake located below the anchors. Precise footwork on meager footholds will help alleviate some of the pump at several clip stances. The rock in this area tends to hold chalk even after a rain, so don't be surprised if you feel like the holds have already been "ticked".

Location [Edit]

The second line of bolts left of the obvious, bolted crack route - Community Service.

Protection [Edit]

Bolts: well protected. Chains for rappel or lower.
Easily one of the best routes in the canyon. Don't miss it. Oct 11, 2008
iancevans
  5.12a
iancevans  
  5.12a
A beautiful route with two distinct cruxes: one down low and one up high.

This is the second .12 I've redpointed, the other being Sentenced to Hang, which gets a consensus grade of .12b. Obviously, that's not much by way of perspective (though I've done my fair share of hard .11s), but this feels at least as hard as Sentenced to me if not a little a harder. The two cruxes are harder than the crux on Sentenced (both technically and in terms of strength), it's more sustained, and has a couple of very tough clips. Obviously, the two routes are very different in terms of style, but I'm better at Wizard-esque climbing and I still think it's as hard as Sentenced. So I propose hard .12b (definitely the crux move on Milanoma (.12c) is much harder than any move on the Wizard).

I suppose it doesn't matter much what it's graded, but I think these discussions are interesting and I'm always trying to get a better understanding of how people grade things. Mar 30, 2009
jbak .
tucson,az
 
jbak .   tucson,az
 
ian...I will give you the straight poop...Wizard is 12a (max !) but delicate so it may feel harder if you're not used to that kind of thing. Sentenced is 12a/b so not much difference there. Milanoma is probably NOT 12c...more like b/c. These are minor shadings of difficulty for sure, but you said you were interested so there you go. Mar 30, 2009
iancevans
  5.12a
iancevans  
  5.12a
Ahh, well if Milanoma is not 12c that makes more sense. Mar 31, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
about the grade: after climbing 3 other 12a's and one 12b i think this route is solid 12a and a good gauge to judge other routes of the grade in the tucson area.

i hereby decree that henceforth all routes that aspire unto the grade of 12a in the great land of Tucson shalt be compared beside The Mighty Wizard. all climbs that are slightly easier than The Mighty Wizard shalt be called 11d; all climbs that are slightly harder than The Mighty Wizard shalt be called 12b; and all climbs that are roughly equal in difficulty unto The Mighty Wizard shalt be called 12a. i have spoken. Nov 30, 2009
iancevans
  5.12a
iancevans  
  5.12a
12a is right. I get it now. I wouldn't use it as the Lemmon standard for the grade, though, because the style is fairly unique.

I'm inclined to think Milanoma is 12c, though. Have to go do Right Tissue and see. Apr 25, 2010
@ Jon Ruland: your comment made my day! Apr 12, 2011
Andy Hansen
Longmont, Colorado
  5.12a/b
Andy Hansen   Longmont, Colorado
  5.12a/b
Very good and sustained technical climbing! I thought the grade leaned a bit closer to 12b but maybe I'm getting soft living in Colorado... probably. Either way, the sustained nature of the route (save for the last 15 feet) really make this a classic. Jan 20, 2014
Nick Henscheid
Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
Nick Henscheid   Tucson, AZ
  5.12a
So good! Great combination of technique and power. If you can work the feet out and milk the two good rests it becomes a very "accessible" 12a. Nov 23, 2014
Alexanderswiderski
Portland
 
Alexanderswiderski   Portland
 
The Wizard demands delicate footwork and it continued to demand my attention once my feet set off the ground. A great route and I am stoked to call it my first 5.12 flash in the Catalinas. Dec 21, 2014

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