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Routes in Sun Spot Crags

Across To Bear T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Angus' Kong T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aurora No Boreals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blinded by the Light S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blink S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brighter Side Of Darkness S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chromosphere T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crack Of Dawn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cragmire S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Euro-lite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Filet Of Sol S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fun With Dick And Bob S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hardboiled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hashbrowns S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Head in the McLeods S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hebrew Hammer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Krymptonite S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lein On Me S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magnetopause S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Myopic S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North American Free Trad Agreement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Tights S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ra's Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Dwarf T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rehearsal of Fortune T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
See the Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sol Survivor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar E-clips S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solar Flare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar Sis-stem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Wind S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sun Baked (No Longer Exists) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Demon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Dialed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunny Side Up S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tallest Man On Earth T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Turn The Other Cheek T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Viking Soared T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wedge Of Delight, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Dwarf S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Scott, Murdock, Rhicard
Page Views: 2,445 total, 17/month
Shared By: Sparky on Jan 8, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


39 Opinions

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Description

Solar E-clips is located in the middle of the Sunburst Crag and climbs a major weakness. The line starts in a dihedral under a roof. There are some interesting moves into a open groove. The top is exceptional with steep pocket (yes, pocket) pulls. This thing took some clean up, but it is fairly sweet in its current state. 8 or so bolts. Sparky speaks the truth.

Protection

draws
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11
hahaha "trad-ass" - thanks eric! :)

Eric Ruljancich also lead this climb on gear on Saturday, and arguably had the more noteworthy ascent. At the last few moves he went for it over shaky gear despite being quite tired. In one of the more ballsy and thrilling efforts I have seen, he fought for the redpoint and fell literally at the final move. Fortunately Eric's quite skilled and the gear held. He wasn't at risk of groundfall but that 20 footer would have been MUCH longer if that gear pulled. Mar 11, 2010
Looked more closely at the gear yesterday as I clipped the bolts and I came to this conclusion. The gear really is dubious in places. One hell of a bold lead Geir and Ruljancich. I would only feel safe leading it because I have it so wired. I doubt I would ever test the stuff you are calling Pro. I know Geir didn't have it that wired. Trad-ass! Mar 11, 2010
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Nice Geir! Mar 8, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11
thanks marcy!! you're the best! :) :) Mar 7, 2010
Marcy
Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Marcy   Tempe/Tuscon, AZ
Big congrats to Geir on sending this route on gear only this past Saturday. Very impressive and inspiring to watch! Way to go, Geir :) Mar 7, 2010
Hendrixson
Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Hendrixson   Tucson, AZ
  5.11c
Working this climb has been a blast. Absolutely fantastic route with a bit of everything.

I left some 'biners on the anchors to make lowering easier / quicker. Hopefully they stay around for a while. Feb 12, 2010
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
 
On a mountain full of fantastic 5.11's, this is one of my favorites. A huge variety of moves and techniques, plus an exciting and pumpy finish. A must-do if you are at the Sun Spots. Jan 27, 2010
How about that for an excuse. Feb 8, 2007
Jimbo  
If one would look 3 comments up, one would see that I have noted that this route is more like .11b/c.
The topo was compiled by someone else, and I can't change it with the edit feature. Feb 7, 2007
I agree with you Susan. 5.11- it is not, even though it feels easier some days. The old anchors you found we think were done by someone who aided the thing years ago. Or they may have lead it on gear. Until they come forward we will never know. I don't know why that Jimbo dude doesn't just change the rating with the edit feature. He's a bit stubborn. Feb 6, 2007
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
Harder than 11a and couldn't be happier that I didn't lead it.

What's the deal with the anchor about 10-12 ft below the actual anchor up top? Different route? Someone extend the last bit?

By the way, that last little bulge getting to the anchor was pretty hard or I was thoroughly gassed, maybe both.

Good route - best one we did on the crag. Closer to 11b/c IMO.

~Susan Feb 5, 2007
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Definitely a sandbag at 11a. I tried it as a warmup thinking that was the grade and got brutally flashpumped. Good route, 2 stars easy. Feb 5, 2007
Jimbo  
After many people have climbed this route, two opinions have emerged:
1: It's the best route at the Sun Spots
2: It's 5.11 b/c Dec 26, 2006
Jimbo  
Solar E-Clips is one of the best routes at this area. Interesting and varied climbing right to the anchors. 5.11- is a bit of a sandbag for this route, but it is a route I would climb again and again. Mar 9, 2006