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Routes in Sun Spot Crags

Across To Bear T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Angus' Kong T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aurora No Boreals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blinded by the Light S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blink S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brighter Side Of Darkness S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chromosphere T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crack Of Dawn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cragmire S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Euro-lite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Filet Of Sol S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fun With Dick And Bob S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hardboiled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hashbrowns S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Head in the McLeods S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hebrew Hammer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Krymptonite S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lein On Me S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magnetopause S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Myopic S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North American Free Trad Agreement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Tights S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ra's Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Dwarf T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rehearsal of Fortune T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
See the Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sol Survivor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar E-clips S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solar Flare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar Sis-stem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Wind S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sun Baked (No Longer Exists) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Demon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Dialed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunny Side Up S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tallest Man On Earth T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Turn The Other Cheek T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Viking Soared T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wedge Of Delight, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Dwarf S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
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Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Scott and Rhicard
Page Views: 2,262 total · 15/month
Shared By: eMurdock on Jan 8, 2006 with updates from Jon Ruland
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Solar Flare is a very good, albeit short, route on perfect rock that nearly justifies the approach by itself. Originally a fully bolted sport route, Solar Flare has been revised to be a full on traditional route. The route was chopped by the FA after reconsidering the placements, recognizing the lack of quality gear routes on the mountain, and a community vote.

Protection

Traditional gear to fixed anchors.

Location

Solar Flare is located on a small cliff about 200 yards to the left (west) of the Sunburst Crag.

Photos

WSnyder  
Another bolted crack? "Regardless of ethics, or lack there of," is not a valid excuse. Remember "If you live by the sword, you die by the sword". Feb 17, 2006
eMurdock
Tucson, Arizona
 
eMurdock   Tucson, Arizona
 
Cres, have you climbed this on gear? It has many unprotectable sections where the bolts are the only way to go. Just because a feature is a crack, does not mean it protects well.

I was not saying "regardless of ethics.." as an excuse. An excuse for what? I was just saying that the line is very good for Tucson standards. By the way, some of the bolts were recently moved to make the opening 20 feet less spicy. But I assume you would ignore the first couple fixed pieces anyway. Have fun.

Anyhow, you are just trolling and trying to get Jim and Eric's goat. They do seem to be migrating to the dark side. Feb 17, 2006
WSnyder  
Hey Erik! Long time no see. I'm just teasing Jim a bit. No harm really meant. It's just funny how our past history can come around and bite us sometimes. Feb 18, 2006
Jimbo  
Guilty as charged. I have gone to the dark side! While I would not lead any of the "cracks" we bolted soley on gear, there are bolts next to protectable cracks. My only defense, they would be in your face scarefests on gear, but bolted they are super fun. I bow to the masses!
If anyone wants to lead Solar Flare or Solar E-clips on gear, let me know, I'll belay you, and chop the bolts when your done. Otherwise, enjoy the safe onsight on us. Feb 24, 2006
Jimbo  
Forgive me father Sheafmen for I have sinned.
EFR led this route today on gear. All gear was super bomber and did not interfear with the holds in the crack. (At least the way Eric placed the gear)
This route is a consensus 3 star sport climb and an even better trad route.
Do we chop or do we not????
Eric and I think we should should leave the bolts. If you want to lead it on gear go for it. This way everybody is happy.
It is our route after all. Apr 28, 2006
It is not ours anymore pal. It is the climbing communities. If they like it better as a sport route the bolts will stay otherwise they will go. The route is great either way. Lead it on gear and you will remember it past tomorrow. Clip it and go is fun but not as memorable. Apr 28, 2006
"Canada" Eric Ruljancich  
  5.11b/c
This is now a gear climb. Sport climbers need not apply :) Mar 15, 2008
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Thanks, Eric. It was great of you and Jim to put up the thread about this route, and then to put the additional effort into removing the bolts. It's a really nice route. Mar 16, 2008
Did this route again yesterday. Have not been on it since I lead it on gear two years ago. What a battle. I decided to place gear where I might if I didn't know the climb and that made it a good deal more interesting. The last piece that protects the last move is from a pumpy stance and I fiddled with stoppers for a while before getting one that would work. This was fun as a clip up and now it is fun and not so soon forgotten. Apr 11, 2008
great route - good job camouflaging the bolt holes eric, you can hardly tell they were there Dec 15, 2008
Geir
Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Geir   Tucson, AZ
  5.11
Some of the history of this climb may not be clear from reading the comments. After this climb was originally bolted and led, Eric and Jim also led it on gear. They subsequently did a remarkable thing: they asked the community if the bolts should be removed or not. The majority of the people responding voted to chop, and Eric and Jim happily obliged.

Now this climb is a fantastic gear line. It is sustained, pumpy, and thrilling. There is just enough quality gear to protect the climb safely without making it too straightforward.

If you're looking for classic 5.11 trad testpieces, put this climb on your list. Apr 2, 2009
Eric D
Gnarnia
  5.11c
Eric D   Gnarnia
  5.11c
A good route. Thanks for removing the bolts Eric, it was much more memorable that way. And gave me a bigger case of sewing-machine leg! Mar 24, 2010
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.11c
Pretty classic for a Mt. Lemmon trad climb; glad the bolts were removed. Feb 19, 2013

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