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Routes in Sun Spot Crags

Across To Bear T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Angus' Kong T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aurora No Boreals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blinded by the Light S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blink S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brighter Side Of Darkness S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chromosphere T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crack Of Dawn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cragmire S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Euro-lite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Filet Of Sol S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fun With Dick And Bob S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hardboiled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hashbrowns S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Head in the McLeods S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hebrew Hammer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Krymptonite S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lein On Me S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magnetopause S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Myopic S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North American Free Trad Agreement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Tights S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ra's Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Dwarf T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rehearsal of Fortune T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
See the Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sol Survivor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar E-clips S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solar Flare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar Sis-stem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Wind S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sun Baked (No Longer Exists) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Demon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Dialed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunny Side Up S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tallest Man On Earth T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Turn The Other Cheek T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Viking Soared T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wedge Of Delight, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Dwarf S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: JSt, EFR
Page Views: 479 total, 3/month
Shared By: Jimbo on Mar 2, 2006 with updates
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

THIS ROUTE NO LONGER EXISTS. DO NOT CLIMB.

Another much needed 5.10 at the Sun Spots. Two cruxes makes this route interesting.
Climb slab to steep bit with good holds, then left to steeper arete with good holds.

Location

Climbs left side of formation just right of Red Dwarf formation.

Protection

bolts, chains

Photos

Jimbo
 
Jimbo  
 
OK here's the story. I got on this route sometime ago and got up to where the anchors should have been. For a minute I thought to myself, damn I really thought they where around the corner and up another 10 feet. Turns out they were well below me in the gully with the rest of the rubble!
Before we started I commented that the rain had wash a lot of rubble down the gully. Turns out about 50 tons of rubble some of it the size of a car!

I down climbed and clipped in straight on the last bolt, hauled up a wrench, then took all the hangers off. When I went back around to rap it to remove the hanger I had lowered off that's when I saw the old anchor still in the huge block that had calved off. It was totally unscathed.

I'm getting older, memory and awareness seems to be slipping a bit. Nov 25, 2015
Jimbo
 
Jimbo  
 
Not even John Baker could of clued that bit on permanently. Snark. Nov 25, 2015
Charles Vernon
Tucson, AZ
Charles Vernon   Tucson, AZ
Does this make Canada Eric the Cassandra of Southern Arizona?? Nov 25, 2015
jbak  
Haha...Now THAT'S a chossy route !! Talk about objective danger. Nov 25, 2015
If you check out the photo topo in SQ III you will see the before picture. Pretty spooky. Nov 25, 2015
mikehilbert
Tucson, AZ
 
mikehilbert   Tucson, AZ
 
THIS CLIMB IS GONE! The tower crumbled to the ground as per the attached pic...bolts are gone and anchors are obviously gone
Nov 22, 2015
This Climb has some fun moves, but the rock is of very poor quality. I pulled off several holds on my accent. Even worse are the two large, and loose blocks, one of which is ready to come off. If you do this climb wear your helmet and be really careful. Better choice might be just to stay away. Jan 19, 2008