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Routes in Sun Spot Crags

Across To Bear T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Angus' Kong T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aurora No Boreals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blinded by the Light S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blink S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brighter Side Of Darkness S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chromosphere T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crack Of Dawn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cragmire S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Euro-lite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Filet Of Sol S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fun With Dick And Bob S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hardboiled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hashbrowns S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Head in the McLeods S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hebrew Hammer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Krymptonite S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lein On Me S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magnetopause S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Myopic S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North American Free Trad Agreement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Tights S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ra's Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Dwarf T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rehearsal of Fortune T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
See the Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sol Survivor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar E-clips S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solar Flare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar Sis-stem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Wind S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sun Baked (No Longer Exists) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Demon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Dialed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunny Side Up S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tallest Man On Earth T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Turn The Other Cheek T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Viking Soared T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wedge Of Delight, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Dwarf S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 40 ft
FA: EFR,JSt,BMorin,'06
Page Views: 996 total, 7/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Short left angling crack 5.12 leads to a big ledge and total recovery. Move back right and clip one of two bolts (for top-roping crack) then head up steep face 5.11 to anchors. These double bolts can be reached by climbing around the left side of the formation to the previously mentioned ledge. You can hang draws on these to TR the crack. Take some small cams for directionals. You can also hike to top of crag tie off an oak work out to the front of the formation and single line rap to chains. You then have to have someone untie the rope so you can set up the TR. Or you can lead it.

Location

From the Griddle hike for two minutes up and left along the wall. Where the trail splits at a cairn go left 50 feet and you will be below the Red Dwarf

Protection

Gear to yellow camalot size. A couple of purple or green cams is helpful. A great wired stopper can be worked in from the ground with a stick to protect the first moves.

Photos

Eric D
Gnarnia
5.12a
Eric D   Gnarnia
5.12a
Now I know why! My beta was all wrong on Aurora. I was using the 12c beta. Yes, Aurora is easier. Apr 11, 2010
Eric D
Gnarnia
5.12a
Eric D   Gnarnia
5.12a
Nope, haven't done Aurora on gear yet. But, Red Dwarf on gear went easier for me than Aurora on bolts. Mar 14, 2010
Jimbo  
Eric,
Have you done Aurora no Boreals on gear? It seems easier than Red Dwarf to me. Hence the 12a/b rating. Mar 1, 2010
Eric D
Gnarnia
5.12a
Eric D   Gnarnia
5.12a
Great route! Though, both Adam and I thought it was 11d/12aish. Sun spots is a nice hard trad crag, not many of those on Mt. Lemmon. Adds a lot to the mountain. Nice work EFR and others. Feb 27, 2010
karatepete
tucson, AZ
karatepete   tucson, AZ
thanks jim, i was gonna ask about the gear. Feb 21, 2010
Jimbo  
First stopper can be placed on lead. (Stick it in your teeth already clipped to the lead line)
Gear spoiler: 1 yellow camalot, 2 green camalots, 1 red camalot, 1 purple camalot and a number 3 camalot at the top if your really scared.
You gotta figure out the order they go in by yourself.

This is a short, safe, fun and challenging trad line. (Not too many of these on the Lemmon) Jan 26, 2010