Type: Trad, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: EFR,JSt,BMorin,'06
Page Views: 1,367 total · 7/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Apr 3, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route

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Short left angling crack 5.12 leads to a big ledge and total recovery. Move back right and clip one of two bolts (for top-roping crack) then head up steep face 5.11 to anchors. These double bolts can be reached by climbing around the left side of the formation to the previously mentioned ledge. You can hang draws on these to TR the crack. Take some small cams for directionals. You can also hike to top of crag tie off an oak work out to the front of the formation and single line rap to chains. You then have to have someone untie the rope so you can set up the TR. Or you can lead it.


From the Griddle hike for two minutes up and left along the wall. Where the trail splits at a cairn go left 50 feet and you will be below the Red Dwarf


Gear to yellow camalot size. A couple of purple or green cams is helpful. A great wired stopper can be worked in from the ground with a stick to protect the first moves.