Type: Sport, 100 ft
FA: EFR,JSt,'06
Page Views: 1,213 total · 8/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


18 Opinions

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Description

This route is on The Griddle which is the first formation you reach when hiking up to Sun Spot Crags. It has three distinct cruxes. Start on rocks at base of low angle left leaning corner with pale SMC hangers. After first SMC hanger on the old route Hardboiled 5.9- clip a Fixe bolt on the right face. Follow left leaning ramps to tricky bulge. Climb steep face and after clipping a chain draw pull on to overhanging headwall and head to the anchors. The two run out sections were not bolted to maintain the integrity of the existing route Hard Boiled 5.9- which stays left of the chimney until you can hand traverse an angling crack into the chimney above the bulge.

Protection

Bolts Finger sized piece gets you to the first fixe hanger of Hashbrowns. One hand sized cam makes easy chimney safe.

Photos

Windy Pete  
 
Good route. Would've been easier had I used the chimney to clip the next bolt above it... Leave the gear on the ground if you want a little more pucker. Encountered a few holds that felt a little loose. Enjoyed the different climbing styles needed for this one. Nov 6, 2011
Justin Headley   Tucson
I brought gear, didn't use it, and felt it was completely unnecessary. Jan 2, 2017
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
  5.10+
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
  5.10+
Bolts were added last year and gear is not needed. Jan 4, 2017
Kemper Brightman
Tucson
 
Kemper Brightman   Tucson
 
This route feels a lot like stuff I've climbed in Joshua Tree... Except it has more than three bolts and doesn't require a walk-off. Feb 17, 2018