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Routes in Sun Spot Crags

Across To Bear T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Angus' Kong T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aurora No Boreals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blinded by the Light S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blink S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brighter Side Of Darkness S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chromosphere T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crack Of Dawn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cragmire S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Euro-lite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Filet Of Sol S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fun With Dick And Bob S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hardboiled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hashbrowns S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Head in the McLeods S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hebrew Hammer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Krymptonite S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lein On Me S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magnetopause S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Myopic S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North American Free Trad Agreement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Tights S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ra's Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Dwarf T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rehearsal of Fortune T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
See the Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sol Survivor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar E-clips S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solar Flare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar Sis-stem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Wind S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sun Baked (No Longer Exists) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Demon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Dialed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunny Side Up S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tallest Man On Earth T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Turn The Other Cheek T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Viking Soared T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wedge Of Delight, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Dwarf S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: JSt, EMk
Page Views: 49 total · 0/month
Shared By: Jimbo on Jan 13, 2007
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Sustained, devious, and pumpy. Doesn't let up till your done.

Location

On the south face of the Solar Flare formation, just right of the large tree.

Protection

Bolts, Chains

Photos

Jimbo
 
Jimbo  
 
I key foothold has been broken off at the second crux bit. While there's still enough of a bump to use, it will be much harder now to see the hold and figure out how to use it. Consequently the on sight rating may be a harder than 5.11.
Good luck amigos. Apr 4, 2007
Got on this yesterday and could not even get up it. The lower section is funky and painfully sharp. The much touted second half is supposed to be good. I found the bottom so unpleasant that I bailed. Apr 11, 2008
Jimbo
 
Jimbo  
 
I got on this after Eric. While I don't share his distain for this route it's a total sand bag at 5.11. The upper 1/2 is pretty good.
The broken foothold didn't seem to make it any harder. Apr 23, 2008
Jimbo
 
Jimbo  
 
Here's the deal. Ryan and I spend a good portion of the day on this dog doo snowcone.
We comfortized the key sharp holds, and pulled off a few others. (Ryan took a upside down whipper when one broke off)
All in all it's OK tips wise.
This thing climbs much better now, but the bottom is very hard to read, and pumpy.
The upper half is as good as anything else at the Sunspots.
Still feels hard .11 to me.

Ignore EFR's comments above, he's an elitist wanker who wants every hold lined with velvet and marked with red and blue tape. Mar 5, 2010
RyanJohnson
Tucson, Arizona
RyanJohnson   Tucson, Arizona
We comfortized the key sharp holds, and pulled off a few others.

What are comfortized holds? Mar 5, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Jimbo wrote:Ignore EFR's comments above, he's an elitist wanker who wants every hold lined with velvet and marked with red and blue tape.
hahahaha Jim! Mar 5, 2010
Jimbo
 
Jimbo  
 
Ryan,
You rub the small sharp crystals off the surface of the hold with a biner or the flat part of the hammer. Then everytime you crimp on it it's not digging deeper cuts into your tips. Mar 5, 2010

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