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Routes in Sun Spot Crags

Across To Bear T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Angus' Kong T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aurora No Boreals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blinded by the Light S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blink S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brighter Side Of Darkness S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chromosphere T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crack Of Dawn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cragmire S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Euro-lite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Filet Of Sol S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fun With Dick And Bob S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hardboiled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hashbrowns S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Head in the McLeods S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hebrew Hammer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Krymptonite S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lein On Me S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magnetopause S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Myopic S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North American Free Trad Agreement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Tights S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ra's Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Dwarf T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rehearsal of Fortune T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
See the Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sol Survivor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar E-clips S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solar Flare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar Sis-stem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Wind S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sun Baked (No Longer Exists) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Demon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Dialed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunny Side Up S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tallest Man On Earth T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Turn The Other Cheek T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Viking Soared T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wedge Of Delight, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Dwarf S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: EFR,JSt,'06
Page Views: 1,107 total, 8/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

Hard start traverses into seam and crack Stick clip the first bolt or have good spotters. To reach this route and Angus Kong 10- Start at The Griddle and hike left and up about 150 feet to cairn. The route is on the short cliff about 40 feet right above you.

Protection

Bolts

Photos

Jake Croft
Tucson, Az
 
Jake Croft   Tucson, Az
 
Thought this thing was a lot more fun than it looks from the ground! Definitely worth getting on Apr 27, 2015
Jimbo  
No worries Randy. Let us know if you do this on gear. It would be a proud send, crash pads or not. Mar 5, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11+
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11+
got it. many thanks, jimbo. Feb 17, 2010
Jimbo  
The name sort of alludes to the fact that the top half would go on gear. So no great insight there. Feb 12, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
  5.11+
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
  5.11+
this can go on gear for sure.

the first piece (a jug/slot) isn't until around the 3rd bolt (20ft??), but the landing is flat and big (note: it could easily take a crash pad). furthermore, the next 20ft offer tons of good gear opportunities, ie. orange/yellow tcu's and nuts. only the last 10 ft would be hard to protect. but that section's only 5.8. Jan 4, 2010
Thanks Mark, we are still looking for more input on the grade. Now give it a star or a bomb or what ever you think it deserves. Thanks. Nov 16, 2009
Mark and Stacy Egan  
  5.12-
If this climb goes at 11+ I must have botched the crux sequence. Otherwise, I would downgrade Holy Moley to 11b/c (having just been on it a couple weeks ago).
--Mark Nov 16, 2009
A.P.T.
Truckee,Ca
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
I like bolt's 3ft apart or closer. That way I can yard my way through all the crux's when I get my old ass out climbing again. Apr 14, 2008
Jimbo  
I did this route again a couple of weeks ago. Since we cleaned up the lower traverse a bit more it seems easier than 12a. It's still a fun route with deceptively hard climbing up high. May 2, 2007