Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: EFR,JSt,'06
Page Views: 1,145 total · 7/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Feb 26, 2006
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route

12 Opinions

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Hard start traverses into seam and crack Stick clip the first bolt or have good spotters. To reach this route and Angus Kong 10- Start at The Griddle and hike left and up about 150 feet to cairn. The route is on the short cliff about 40 feet right above you.




I did this route again a couple of weeks ago. Since we cleaned up the lower traverse a bit more it seems easier than 12a. It's still a fun route with deceptively hard climbing up high. May 2, 2007
A.P.T.   Truckee,Ca
I like bolt's 3ft apart or closer. That way I can yard my way through all the crux's when I get my old ass out climbing again. Apr 14, 2008
Mark and Stacy Egan  
If this climb goes at 11+ I must have botched the crux sequence. Otherwise, I would downgrade Holy Moley to 11b/c (having just been on it a couple weeks ago).
--Mark Nov 16, 2009
1Eric Rhicard
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Thanks Mark, we are still looking for more input on the grade. Now give it a star or a bomb or what ever you think it deserves. Thanks. Nov 16, 2009
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
this can go on gear for sure.

the first piece (a jug/slot) isn't until around the 3rd bolt (20ft??), but the landing is flat and big (note: it could easily take a crash pad). furthermore, the next 20ft offer tons of good gear opportunities, ie. orange/yellow tcu's and nuts. only the last 10 ft would be hard to protect. but that section's only 5.8. Jan 4, 2010
The name sort of alludes to the fact that the top half would go on gear. So no great insight there. Feb 12, 2010
randy baum
Minneapolis, MN
randy baum   Minneapolis, MN
got it. many thanks, jimbo. Feb 17, 2010
No worries Randy. Let us know if you do this on gear. It would be a proud send, crash pads or not. Mar 5, 2010
Jake Croft
Tucson, Az
Jake Croft   Tucson, Az
Thought this thing was a lot more fun than it looks from the ground! Definitely worth getting on Apr 27, 2015