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Routes in Sun Spot Crags

Across To Bear T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Angus' Kong T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aurora No Boreals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blinded by the Light S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blink S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brighter Side Of Darkness S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chromosphere T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crack Of Dawn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cragmire S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Euro-lite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Filet Of Sol S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fun With Dick And Bob S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hardboiled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hashbrowns S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Head in the McLeods S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hebrew Hammer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Krymptonite S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lein On Me S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magnetopause S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Myopic S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North American Free Trad Agreement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Tights S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ra's Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Dwarf T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rehearsal of Fortune T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
See the Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sol Survivor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar E-clips S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solar Flare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar Sis-stem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Wind S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sun Baked (No Longer Exists) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Demon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Dialed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunny Side Up S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tallest Man On Earth T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Turn The Other Cheek T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Viking Soared T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wedge Of Delight, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Dwarf S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: EFR,JSt,David Merin,Josie Becker,Eric Ruljancich,Christian Rodenbeck, Max
Page Views: 842 total, 9/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Mar 10, 2010
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

This is a variation finish to Hashbrowns. A cool committing move with nice air lead to a big jug then a hard traverse and pumpy gear placements. Stays on you even when it looks like it should be over. Pro is good but a little shallow small and spooky. A failure of the gear on the traverse could lead to a swing into a ramp. Long slings on the last bolt and the first gear placements really help with the rope drag. We did this route after toproping it once, so although we didn't have the gear completely dialed we did have a clue and that helps. This would be a proud onsight and I base the rating on that. If it was a clip up I would probably call it an 11+. Will change it if needed as more folks climb it. Rock is a little chossy in places but should clean up with some work and traffic. D. Merin did the lower half using sparse gear placements and 4 ft. runners to reduce drag and make the whole thing trad.

Location

Start up Hashbrowns and as you get to the bulge below the chimney clip the bolt below the bulge with a long sling then move up even with the lip of the bulge and climb right to a horizontal. After getting bomber gear with a long sling, continue right four feet or so, place small cams then head up the face to crack eventually working right to another crack and the anchors

Protection

If you just do the finish with trad gear you need Cams to yellow Camalot. A purple Camalot and a yellow metolius can be had at the first jug. A blue mastercam (fell on it once) in a shallow horizontal after traversing or you fill a handhold, then a purple master just above it in an angling crack are all that is between you and a collision with stone. After that a yellow camalot then a blue mastercam, then a red camalot with a long sling, and maybe one or two greens will get you to the top. If you skip the bolts on the first half you will need more gear to protect it.

Photos

Tantrum Galaxy, what do you know about tantrums? The Jimbo that was there had gray hair, not brownish black with coppery highlights. You sir are an impostor. Mar 14, 2010
Jimbo  
I was there during the tantrum I would've called it Binary Star.
Another great gear climb goes up at the Sun Spots, who'd of thought... Mar 12, 2010
Nice send Eric. Pretty sweet birthday present too. This is a stout line, and involves some serious climbing over good, but small, well spaced gear. Dang, now I have to redpoint this thing..... Mar 11, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
Nice Eric!! Can't wait to try it out! Mar 10, 2010