Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Sun Spot Crags

Across To Bear T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Ain't no Sunshine When it's Gone S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Angus' Kong T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Aurora No Boreals S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Black Hole T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Blinded by the Light S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blink S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brighter Side Of Darkness S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Chromosphere T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Crack Of Dawn T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cragmire S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
English Breakfast Crack T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Euro-lite S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Filet Of Sol S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Fun With Dick And Bob S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Hardboiled T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Hashbrowns S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Head in the McLeods S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hebrew Hammer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Krymptonite S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Lein On Me S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Magnetopause S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Myopic S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
North American Free Trad Agreement T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Northern Tights S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Ra's Arete S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Red Dwarf T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Rehearsal of Fortune T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
See the Light T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Sol Survivor S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar E-clips S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Solar Flare T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Solar Sis-stem S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Solar Wind S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sun Baked (No Longer Exists) S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Demon S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Sun Dialed S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Sunny Side Up S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tallest Man On Earth T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Turn The Other Cheek T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Viking Soared T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Wedge Of Delight, The S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
White Dwarf S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Michael Strassman & Mark Colby
Page Views: 1,053 total, 7/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Feb 28, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


10 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Start from rocky ledge and climb left-facing dihedral with pale SMC hangers. (New style and safe) Climb past third or fourth bolt before traversing right with good gear to the chimney. If you traverse at the bolt you will have a harder but well protected bulge to surmount.

Protection

Light rack up to hand sized cams.

Photos

Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
A friend and I were out at the Sun Spots today and we didn't really know what any of the climbs were besides English Breakfast Crack, so we saw this dihedral and just decided to go for it. Did it mostly on gear (clipped 2 or 3 bolts) but we didn't traverse right as described, instead continuing up the OW groove past some funky rock and doing the finish of what I now know is Sunny Side Up. This was really fun and pretty well protected. Takes TONS of stoppers; I don't remember ever placing this many bomber stoppers on a single pitch before. If done this way, make sure to sling pieces below the roof long so you don't get bummer rope drag for the exciting (if done on gear) finish. What part of each route I did was great fun and I would recommend to anyone. Dec 21, 2011
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.9+ PG13
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.9+ PG13
The first right-slanting crack on the upper face is shallow and uneven, probably a few millimeters difference between an OK placement and a crap one that will walk and tip out w the slightest nudge from the rope.

Also, the moves between that first crack and the next one further up (ie bypassing the chimney and staying on the face) are harder than 5.9, more like 9+/10-.

Would not recommend this for beginning trad leaders unless 9+/10- is fairly easy for them. Dec 17, 2011
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
  5.9
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
  5.9
pro seemed kinda tricky to me (?) Dec 9, 2007