Type: Trad, 60 ft
FA: Dave Brown and Robert McLeod
Page Views: 752 total · 7/month
Shared By: Robert B. McLeod on Mar 15, 2010
Admins: Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Greg Opland

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Description

The crux is moving off the bottom block into the crack. Right now there are no chains, but these will be added. Exit right and use the chains to the right.

Location

This is the squeeze chimney on the left flank of the Sunburst wall as you look at it from below.

Protection

Small and medium cams, with a #5 Camalot for the top, if you want it.

Photos

1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
1Eric Rhicard   Tucson
Just left of Crack of Dawn which is the 10+ trad route with two finishes. Mar 15, 2010
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
 
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
 
This has some interesting moves, and some slightly tricky gear. I hauled up a bunch of big stuff but didn't use any of it, mostly small to medium Aliens. Some small to medium tricams might be the useful for the bottom section.

LOVE the name, perfect name for a new climb at the Sun Spots. Mar 23, 2010
AlexW
Tucson, AZ
 
AlexW   Tucson, AZ
 
I was up there yesterday and had to do this route just because of the name! The route is still fairly grungy and a little loose, I managed to break a small hold off at the bottom so be careful.

We placed a couple stoppers (#7ish BD), a yellow alien, 0.3-0.75 camalots and a #2 at the top (behind a questionable block). Protection might be a bit tricky for a new trad leader. Nov 29, 2015
Sam Thompson
Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
Sam Thompson   Tucson, AZ
  5.7+
Did this the other day and was still crumbling a lot of stuff under my feet. It's worth noting as I ended up with a fairly run out section past the half way point, where the threat of weak holds made for some excitement. Brought some big stuff but not much point. Jan 29, 2017