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Routes in Orifice Wall

Another Word For Eureka S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Ape Debate S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Brightest Fire, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Coup de' tat S 5.13a/b 8a 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Disfigured Foreigner S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Disfigured Oedipus S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Eureka S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Flyer Starter S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Gettin' Off The Porch S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Granite of the Apes S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Hard Day at The Orifice S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Heel-A Monster S 5.13- 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E7 6c
Hereiophobia T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Huck Fin S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
In Search of Silence S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Oedipus Complex S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Orifice Politics S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Taking a Kneebar S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unattended Consequences S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Unknown S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: EFR,Vince Bates Josie Becker,Geir Hundal, '08
Page Views: 9,521 total, 85/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Sep 16, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


42 Opinions

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Closed to climbing March 15 - June 30 Details

Description

This is a line I have looked at since 1996. The first forty feet had been started by Mark Hathaway so I stayed off of it. In 2001 I bolted a hard variation finish in an effort not to ruffle Marks feathers but still allow me to climb this face. Mark worked it some in 2001 but as far as I know that was it. This year Vince called and asked if he could work the route which was pretty nice since almost no work that I know of has been done on it in years. Mark said yes and so Vince and I started working the route with my alternate finish. Vince figured out the first crux (the Mary Poppins move) which I had never done til this year. Thanks to a little cleaning to consolidate the kitty litter it is pretty reasonable now. Vince has done the route with my original finish which has a harder crux higher up with one hang. Today we bolted the line that I had always envisioned which goes straight up a big flake then turns the bulge and up a less steep but still overhanging headwall. So after twelve years of looking at it and few dozen tries at the crux I finally got to climb it on my second run. It is a great line with a wild crux slightly less than half way up. The rest of the climb is an enduro fest that took knee bars and arm bars to make it go. Will have to wait for others opinions but for twelve years I have said it is one of the most striking lines in Tucson and that is why I am so thrilled to finally climb it. Hey the guidelines say deepest thoughts. Not that deep maybe but they are my thoughts.

P.S. The swing off of this route is even better than Hard Day. Climb up to the second bolt step left make sure you have as much stretch out of the rope as possible then cut loose.

Location

Starts on the ramp about 6 feet before you reach the ledge where you start Hard Day... 70M rope will ensure no one hits the ground on the 102 foot lower.

Protection

Bolts,chaws(chain draws) Bring some draws as a few bolts don't have chaws. One working bolt at the crux that is only used to work out the move then skipped.
Dominic Weinstock  
  5.12
Easily best 12 I've ever done! Cheers guys for all the effort putting it up! Jul 14, 2013
jbak  
Brian Schmitt said........
I love climbing ethics, gotta wait 12 years to send a beautiful line cuz of someone elses huge ego, lol.
..................

That's exactly the type comment that makes me regret contributing anything to this site.
Jul 17, 2012
I love climbing ethics, gotta wait 12 years to send a beautiful line cuz of someone elses huge ego, lol. Jul 16, 2012
jbak  
Fan......kick-frackin......tastic !! Oct 21, 2011
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
thanks all! this one will be a memorable route for me for sure. joe, thanks for the belay! Oct 20, 2010
Christian
Casa do Cacete
  5.12c
Christian   Casa do Cacete
  5.12c
Awesome Geir! :-) Oct 20, 2010
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
  5.12c
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
  5.12c
Geir DESTROYED the route today! An excellent redpoint, with effortless climbing and amazing use of the rests. Great job, Geir! Oct 19, 2010
Way to go Geir! Oct 19, 2010
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
an excellent route. sustained, fun moves the whole way, creative rests, and fantastic exposure. Oct 19, 2010
RyanJames
  5.12c
RyanJames  
  5.12c
Quite possibly the best route I've ever done. Feb 23, 2010
Joe Kreidel
San Antonio, TX
  5.12c
Joe Kreidel   San Antonio, TX
  5.12c
As good as Hard Day is, this is even better. It is longer and more sustained, and for me, every single move was smooth and seemed to flow right into the next one. Not an awkward move on the whole climb. there are some amazing sequences using some unique holds, and some really cool hidden rests. I'm pretty sure this will always be near the top of my favorite climbs.

The crux is waiting the 9 months until we can get back out there. Dec 18, 2009
Jon Ruland
Tucson, AZ
Jon Ruland   Tucson, AZ
i have heard this climb has the awesome. is there truth to this statement? Dec 17, 2009
Red
Tacoma, Toyota
  5.12c
Red   Tacoma, Toyota
  5.12c
Wow! Good job getting that FA Eric! I didn't realize that route was a project up until like two weeks ago. Jesse, Same to you, great work with the SA third go! It was nice to meet both of you up there this Saturday.
Luke Sep 29, 2008
Glad you guys were there. Now that a couple of days have passed and I have had time to think about it, climbing that route may have been the single best effort I have ever given while sport climbing. I have done some harder routes but those were so wired that they didn't seem too bad when I climbed them. Pretty cool stuff. Can't wait for Saturday! Sep 18, 2008
Geir
Tucson, AZ
 
Geir   Tucson, AZ
 
great send eric! that's one for the history books! Sep 17, 2008
nice work eric!! i should let everyone know what a great battle it was, both physically and mentally, for this to go down. and judging by the huge grin plastered on your face, eric, it was well worth it!! it was great to have been there to cheer you on to victory!! Sep 17, 2008