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Routes in New Wave Wall

Change in Luck S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Holey Moley S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lady Don't Mind, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
New Wave Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Point Break S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skidmark S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wavey Gravy S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Ray Ringle
Page Views: 3,285 total, 23/month
Shared By: jbak on Apr 25, 2006
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


28 Opinions

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Description

Follows the crack but New Wave DIRECT breaks a bit right when the crack jogs left.

New Wave (original) used to follow the crack all the way to the ledge as a gear route with 2 or 3 pieces of fixed pro. The awesomeness of the line was enhanced by the fact that it was the ONLY route on the wall at that time.

Protection

bolts.

Photos

Mitch Beiser
Tucson, Arizona
  5.12c
Mitch Beiser   Tucson, Arizona
  5.12c
Had just come back from the enchanted tower. After sending this, it just made me compare how a enchanted tower 12b had maybe a v2 r v3 on it while this 12c seemed much more difficult... But I do agree that this stands as a 12c on the Lemmon spectrum. A tough 12c... those top really sharp crimps were a battle for me! Jun 19, 2017
Eric, I climbed it in the early 90's and dont recall Pins but mabye I was on another climb although I am looking at the book and it seems to be the same route, for me it was the bolted crack, and looking at the book it states FA: RR,BM, but someone told me when I lived in Sierra Vista,that HS did it with gear only and was the FA just dont recall pins, anywho... Could never get Skid Mark, just too hard for me I guess... I met you in'91 or so , thank you for all your work on Lemmon! Jan 12, 2014
jbak
 
jbak  
 
Right up your alley ! Apr 18, 2013
Geir
Tucson, AZ
Geir   Tucson, AZ
I remember thinking it would be a long way to the first good placement. Apr 18, 2013
jbak
 
jbak  
 
I guess what I would do (if tasked to do anything) would be... move the first 2 bolts higher (so the pin is not necessary), but leave the pin for its charm.

Or... chop the whole thing -- it goes on gear ! Apr 18, 2013
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
We talked in the gym jbak, I would agree the changes would make sense now. Although I would love to see the pin stay and just have a bolt nearby, as opposed to pulling it. Apr 18, 2013
jbak
 
jbak  
 
It sure doesn't matter to me.

But my practised eye discerns:

First bolt does not protect anything.
2nd bolt forces draw to lay over the clip hold.
If pin breaks or pops you will deck. Apr 17, 2013
Alex McIntyre
Tucson, AZ
 
Alex McIntyre   Tucson, AZ
 
Why can't we just leave it as-is? I like the pin, it's (seemingly?) bomber and adds character to an already interesting route. Apr 17, 2013
Rest! Hah! I am in too big a hurry to send this thing to take a rest. Falling. "Damn, I need to get stronger"!

I watched too guys work Goliath for months. They each had dozens of runs before they got up it. They were stronger than me by a factor of two but would not stay at a rest longer than 60 seconds. Heel hooks, wrist hooks, knee bars, thumb catches all these techniques can make the difference. Oh yeah, and lose 5 pounds. Apr 17, 2013
jbak
 
jbak  
 
E... I think the block in question is too big to pry. And the eliminated moves weren't much fun anyway. Might be better to move the first 2 bolts and eliminate the pin. I'll mention it to Ray some time. I'd be happy to do the work.

This route has seen a lot of action recently. I watched 6 folks hurl themselves at it on a recent sunday. I mentioned my infamous "waitress thumb-rest" to them and they looked at me like I was crazy. But I found it again when I was there with EWod. Full recovery just before the final hard moves... piece-a-cake ! Apr 16, 2013
Mark, I am pretty sure there were some fixed pins as I clipped them when I tried it in the 80's.

Hey John, perhaps a little pry bar work is in order. Same thing has happened to Holey Moley. I can fix that without a pry bar when I have a couple of minutes and I am in the area. Apr 16, 2013
jbak
 
jbak  
 
I belayed EWod on his redpoint yesterday and decided to give it a go since it has been 20 yrs since I redpointed it. Feel confident I could bag it again quite quickly. Seemed just faintly soft for 12c. Solid 3 stars, better than Tsunami in my book.

When they did the highway construction a few years back, they promised they'd be careful not to dump debris down and wreck the climbs here. ........BZZZZZITT !! They buried the first two moves of this route so it is a bit shorter and a vicious crip has been eliminated. And now the first bolt doesn't really protect anything. It used to be a ways up, but now it's a lazy and almost useless clip off the deck. Apr 15, 2013
This route took me a few tries before I could get it, but being the first route on the wall and Suzuki doing it with cams? nut? only is incredible, please correct me if I am wrong on that account, but the route is so technical and just so fun just as all the others on the wall, another classic along with Tsunami. May 12, 2011