All Locations > Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mount Lemmon (San… > Mount Lemmon (Cat… > 3 - Windy Point East > New Wave Wall
Change in Luck
Avg: 1.6 from 5 votes
Routes in New Wave Wall
|Change in Luck S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13|
|Holey Moley S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Lady Don't Mind, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Modern Times S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|New Wave Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Point Break S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b|
|Skidmark S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b|
|Tsunami S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b|
|Wavey Gravy S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Type:||Sport, 70 ft|
|FA:||John Fowler, Scott Ayers, Brent Olson|
|Page Views:||840 total, 8/month|
|Shared By:||iancevans on Oct 18, 2009|
|Admins:||Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick|
DescriptionThis route is basically a hard boulder problem (V3/4, IMO) up to a good hands free rest. After that a long, dynamic move puts you onto easier terrain. After the last bolt directly on Change in Luck, it's a long, traversing runout to join Skid Mark at the last bolt and then chains shortly thereafter. The climbing on this runout is very moderate.
Change in Luck currently shares anchors with Skid Mark, around 10 feet to the right and perhaps 25 feet above the last bolt directly on Change in Luck. A spicy runout--a fall near the top could have you swinging hard into the cliff in front of New Wave.
A fun climb worth getting on if you've already tagged some of the better lines on the wall.
Note: the right side of the big hole that you rest in feels pretty rotten--use it gently.
Note: Stick-clipping the second bolt is not a bad idea; very difficult climbing to a difficult clipping position.