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Routes in New Wave Wall

Change in Luck S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b PG13
Holey Moley S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Lady Don't Mind, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Modern Times S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
New Wave Direct S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Point Break S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Skidmark S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Tsunami S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Wavey Gravy S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Rhicard; 1990
Page Views: 4,240 total, 26/month
Shared By: eMurdock on May 24, 2004
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


57 Opinions

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Description

Holey Moley climbs through the obvious hole in the middle of the New Wave Wall and continues to the top of the formation. This is probably the easiest route on the New Wave Wall although it is one of the best. Climb small crimps to the hole. The start might be more difficult for shorter climbers. Climb past the hole on delicate moves past an optional tcu placement. Once on the ledge, continue on 5.9 climbing to the chains. Gets morning shade.

Protection

draws and an optional #1 TCU

Photos

DGraham
Dallas
  5.11d
DGraham   Dallas
  5.11d
Since nobody has said it recently, this route is awesome!
Bring a blue tcu/mastercam. This route is not to be missed!
I'm newer to these grades but it seems the hueco provides a good enough rest to keep this route out of the 5.12 grade. Jul 26, 2015
I had the luck and some great friends to cheer me on, to OS this great climb and still to this day find it to be a favorite for me on Lemmon (besides Lizards (Marm. direct) and and and and etc...). I still go back here and there to give it a go just because this wall has so many great sport routes and some good history that it keeps a calling. The rock is great and the routes are terrific. A must do!!!! May 12, 2011
Matt Fowls
Tucson, Arizona
  5.11d
Matt Fowls   Tucson, Arizona
  5.11d
regardless, this is an awesome climb. good job on the onsight, ian! Oct 6, 2009
iancevans
  5.12a
iancevans  
  5.12a
Watched Matt climb it today and with his beta, 11d sounds right. Still harder than a couple 12a's I've done (like Forever in Bluejeans and Disfigured Foreigner; much bette than either, too). Oct 6, 2009
iancevans
  5.12a
iancevans  
  5.12a
This climb is fantastic! A bit run-out to the break, but the climbing is secure enough that it doesn't matter--even if you're at your limit, you should be fit enough to recover at the hueco so that you can get to the break safely and without much pump.

I thought this was as hard or ever-so-slightly-harder than several consensus 12a's on the mountain, but whatever, maybe my beta was off. Oct 5, 2009